Oil-Based Pomade Formulation for Extra Hold and Custom Fragrance

Asked by: tuangya On: January 21, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make an oil-based pomade with extra hold. I am considering using the following ingredients:

  • Beeswax
  • Petroleum Jelly
  • Jojoba Oil
  • Almond Oil
  • sweet tree oil
  • honey
  • Peppermint Oil
  • Coconut Oil
  • Fragrance

However, I want to add a custom fragrance using a fragrance oil and avoid the natural scents from the ingredients. I have previously made a batch where the Beeswax scent was quite strong and the added fragrance did not last long.

Based on my ingredient list and goals:

  1. Which ingredients should I remove because they have strong scents that interfere with the added fragrance?
  2. What should I use to make the added fragrance last longer?
  3. What ratio should I use for each ingredient to achieve extra hold?

Answer

Oil-Based Pomade Formulation for Extra Hold and Custom Fragrance

To achieve an extra hold pomade with a prominent added fragrance, you need to modify your ingredient list and adjust the ratios.

Ingredients to Remove or Adjust for Scent Control

Several ingredients in your list have natural scents that will compete with an added fragrance oil:

  • Peppermint Oil: This is a strong essential oil with a very distinct and dominant scent. To ensure your added fragrance is the primary smell, Peppermint Oil should be omitted.
  • Honey: Natural honey has a noticeable sweet aroma. It is also water-soluble, which can affect the stability and texture of an oil-based product if used in significant amounts. To focus on your added fragrance, Honey should be omitted.
  • Beeswax: As you noted, beeswax has a natural scent. Using a refined or white beeswax (like the Natural White Beeswax) will have a milder odor than unrefined yellow beeswax, which can help reduce its impact on the final scent. However, some scent may still be present.
  • Sweet tree oil: This term is broad, and many natural oils have characteristic scents. If the "sweet tree oil" you are using has a strong natural smell, consider omitting it or replacing it with a low-odor oil like Fractionated Coconut Oil or Mineral Oil if you want the added fragrance to be the only scent.

Recommendation: Omit Peppermint Oil and Honey. Use refined/white Beeswax and low-odor oils like Fractionated Coconut Oil.

Making Fragrance Last Longer

The longevity of a fragrance in an oil-based pomade depends on the fragrance oil itself and the base formula.

  • Fragrance Oil Quality: Use a high-quality fragrance oil specifically designed for cosmetic applications. Some fragrance notes are naturally more volatile than others.
  • Concentration: Ensure you are using the fragrance oil at an appropriate concentration. Typical usage rates in pomades can range from 0.5% to 2% of the total formula, but always check the supplier's recommended maximum usage rate for skin products. Using a higher percentage (within safe limits) will result in a stronger and potentially longer-lasting scent.
  • Base Composition: The waxy and oily base helps to hold onto the fragrance molecules. Omitting volatile natural oils (like Peppermint) prevents them from causing the fragrance to dissipate faster.

Ingredient Ratios for Extra Hold

Extra hold in an oil-based pomade is primarily achieved by the ratio of waxes (especially Beeswax) to oils and petroleum jelly. A higher proportion of wax results in a firmer product with more hold.

Here is a general guideline for ingredient ratios to aim for extra hold. These are starting points, and you will need to experiment to find the exact texture and hold you desire:

  • Beeswax (Natural White Beeswax): This is the backbone of your hold. For extra hold, use a high percentage, typically 40% - 60%.
  • Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline Petroleum Jelly): This adds pliability, slip, and some hold. Use a moderate amount, around 20% - 40%. The more you use relative to beeswax, the greasier and less firm the hold will be.
  • Liquid Oils (Jojoba Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Sweet tree oil if used): These oils soften the pomade, add shine, and condition the hair. For extra hold, keep the total percentage of liquid oils relatively low, around 10% - 30%. Using less oil will increase the firmness and hold. Fractionated Coconut Oil is a good choice as it is odorless and lightweight.
  • Fragrance Oil: Add at the end of the process when the mixture has cooled slightly but is still liquid. Use at 0.5% - 2% of the total formula, following supplier recommendations.

Example Ratio (adjust as needed):

  • Beeswax: 50%
  • Petroleum Jelly: 30%
  • Jojoba Oil: 5%
  • Sweet Almond Oil: 5%
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil: 8%
  • Fragrance Oil: 2%
    (Total: 100%)

This is just an example. You may need to adjust the ratio of Beeswax to Petroleum Jelly and the total amount of oils to get your desired level of extra hold and texture.

By removing the strongly scented natural ingredients (Peppermint Oil, Honey), using a low-odor beeswax and oils, and adjusting the ratios to favor wax for hold while keeping oils lower, you can create an extra hold pomade where your added fragrance oil is prominent and lasts longer.