Oil Jelly Serum Formulation with Water-Soluble Actives
Question
I am trying to create a facial oil jelly serum that can incorporate 2-3% water-soluble active ingredients.
I have previously tried using Oil Stick™ Medium and Water Balm™, but they resulted in a hard/balm texture, not a jelly.
What ingredients and mixing method should I use to achieve a soft oil jelly texture while successfully incorporating water-soluble actives?
Answer
Guidance for Creating an Oil Jelly Serum
You're looking to create a facial oil jelly serum that can incorporate water-soluble active ingredients. Based on your attempts and the properties of the ingredients, here's some guidance:
Why Oil Stick Medium and Water Balm Might Not Be Ideal
- Oil Stick™ Medium: This ingredient is designed to create hard or stick textures, suitable for products like lipsticks or deodorant sticks. As you experienced, it requires high heat to melt and solidifies significantly upon cooling, making it unsuitable for a soft jelly serum texture.
- Water Balm™: This is a balm builder that helps incorporate a small amount of water (up to 10%) into oil/wax formulas to create a balm texture, similar to a lip balm or butter balm. It is not intended for creating a gel texture.
Recommended Ingredient: Sugar Gel
For creating an oil gel texture that can hold a small amount of water-soluble ingredients (up to 10% water content in the formula), Sugar Gel is a suitable choice.
How to Use Sugar Gel for an Oil Jelly Serum with Water-Soluble Actives
Sugar Gel works by creating a gel structure within the oil phase and can bridge a small water phase into this structure.
Follow these steps for mixing:
- Prepare the Water Phase: Mix Sugar Gel with Glycerin and water. If you have water-soluble active ingredients (like your 2-3% extracts), dissolve them in this water/Glycerin mixture at this stage. Heat this mixture to about 70-80°C and stir gradually until it melts into a creamy texture.
- Prepare the Oil Phase: Heat your chosen oils to 70-80°C.
- Combine Phases: Slowly pour the heated oil phase into the heated water phase (from step 1) while continuously stirring or blending. Do not pour all the oil at once; add it slowly and maintain continuous stirring until the gel texture forms. Continue adding oil gradually until all the oil is incorporated and you achieve the desired gel consistency.
Adding water-soluble actives to the water/Glycerin phase before combining helps ensure they are properly dispersed and minimizes their exposure to high heat for extended periods, helping to preserve their properties.
Using Sugar Gel and following this specific mixing method should help you achieve the oil jelly serum texture you desire while successfully incorporating your water-soluble active ingredients.
