Oil-Soluble Natural Film Former for Cream Eyeshadow to Prevent Creasing
คำถาม
I am developing an all oil-soluble cream eyeshadow formulation and am seeking a natural-origin ingredient that can help elongate the wear time and ensure there is no creasing.
What oil-soluble, natural-origin ingredient is recommended to function as a film former and wear extender in this type of anhydrous cosmetic formulation?
คำตอบ
The pre-selected product, Versa-Film™ (Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, ID: 6589), is not suitable for your all-oil-soluble cream eyeshadow formula because it is a water-soluble polymer.
For an oil-soluble, natural-origin ingredient that can elongate wear and prevent creasing in a cream eyeshadow, we recommend using Ethylcellulose (ID: 7891).
Ethylcellulose is a cellulose derivative that functions as both an oil thickener (gelling agent) and a film former. The film-forming property is essential for creating a thin, flexible layer on the skin that locks the color in place, significantly extending wear time and preventing the product from settling into creases.
Key Features and Usage for Your Formula:
- Solubility: Oil-soluble (specifically in polar oils and ethanol).
- Function: Film Former and Oil Thickener/Gelling Agent.
- Recommended Grade: Ethylcellulose (7 cps.) (ID: 7891) is a low-density grade specifically recommended for its film-forming properties.
- Usage Rate: 0.5-20% (start with a lower percentage, e.g., 2-5%, and adjust based on the desired film strength and viscosity).
- Mixing Method:
- Add Ethylcellulose to your oil phase and blend until dispersed.
- Heat the oil phase to 70-85°C until the Ethylcellulose dissolves completely and the mixture becomes clear.
- Allow the mixture to cool, at which point it will thicken and form the film-forming base.
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Versa-Film™