Optimal pH and Achieving Darker Color for Semi-Permanent Hair Dye

Asked by: nawat2205 On: January 21, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a hair dye cream (in the form of hair conditioner) that includes herbal powder and the hair dye SemiColor - Red Brown. I purchased this product before the new year.
Before the new year, I saw information on the website stating that "this dye should be used at pH 8.0-9.0 or higher for good color adherence to hair," but now when I check again, it says "should use pH around 6.0".

  • Could you please clarify what the correct pH for this product is to ensure good color adherence to hair?
    Additionally, I have tried making a cream with a pH of approximately 8-9.
    I tried adding 2 grams (2%) of the dye to a 100 gram (100%) cream formula. The resulting cream gave a medium color intensity at pH 8-9, not very dark. I would like a darker color.
  • How can I achieve a darker color?

Answer

Optimal pH and Achieving Darker Color for SemiColor - Red Brown

Based on the product information for SemiColor - Red Brown, the optimal pH for your hair conditioning cream to achieve good color adherence is around 9.0. The description indicates that a more alkaline pH helps open the hair cuticles, allowing the color to stick better. However, the pH should not exceed 9.0 to prevent the color from decomposing. The information you saw previously about pH 8.0-9.0 is consistent with this recommendation, while the pH 6.0 information appears incorrect for optimal results with this product.

To achieve a darker color than your current result at 2% concentration and pH 8-9, you can take the following steps:

  • Increase SemiColor Concentration: The recommended usage rate for SemiColor - Red Brown is between 0.5% and 12% depending on the desired intensity. Since you are currently using 2%, you can increase the concentration in your formula up to a maximum of 12% to achieve a more intense color.
  • Add ColorFix™: The product description for SemiColor - Red Brown specifically recommends using ColorFix™ at 5% in conditioner or hair treatment formulas. ColorFix™ is designed to help semi-permanent hair colors adhere better to the hair and last longer by coating the hair with cationic properties. Adding ColorFix™ to your formula at the recommended rate should significantly improve color uptake and intensity.

Additionally, the product information advises avoiding anionic surfactants (negatively charged) and ingredients that are salts or electrolytes in your formula, as these can negatively impact the longevity of the hair color. Using non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants is recommended.