Optimizing Matte Anti-Aging SPF Formula for Zero Eye Irritation and Stability
คำถาม
I am developing a matte, pore-blurring, and anti-aging SPF product. My previous attempt caused eye irritation later in the day, which I suspected might be due to AquaForce™ BEMT (BEMT Water-Dispersion, Non-Sticky). I have since replaced it with Titanium Zinc NanoLiquid™ DEC (non-white, low viscosity) to potentially reduce irritation. I also considered adding chamomile oil for scent, but I am concerned it might be an eye irritant.
Could you please review the following formula for potential eye irritants and stability issues, and advise on any necessary changes to ensure it does not cause eye stinging or burning?
Formula for Matte Anti-Aging SPF (25 g batch):
| Phase | Ingredient | % | g (25 g batch) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | Silky Serum Base Plus | 14.0 | 3.50 | Slightly reduced to stay under 30 % oil |
| A | Titanium Zinc NanoLiquid™ DEC | 12.0 | 3.00 | Still gives solid SPF 45–50 |
| A | Quick Blur | 3.0 | 0.75 | |
| A | Cyclopentasiloxane | 1.0 | 0.25 | |
| A | Pure-Sclareol™ | 0.2 | 0.05 | Oil-soluble firming – safe level |
| Total Oil/Silicone Phase | 30.2 % | 7.55 g | Compliant | |
| B | Purified Water | 52.9 | 13.23 | |
| B | Chamomile Water | 10.0 | 2.50 | "Soothing, no eye sting" |
| B | Propanediol | 4.0 | 1.00 | |
| B | X-Glycerin (Polyglycerin-10) | 1.0 | 0.25 | |
| B | Genistein EZ™ | 2.0 | 0.50 | Antioxidant boost |
| B | Amino Matte | 2.0 | 0.50 | |
| B | Disodium EDTA | 0.1 | 0.025 | |
| B | Sepimax Zen | 0.6 | 0.15 | |
| C/D | SiliSilk™ 5H | 0.5 | 0.13 | |
| C/D | FlashTenser™ | 1.5 | 0.38 | Instant matte lift |
| C/D | Syn-Ake eq. | 3.0 | 0.75 | Botox-like wrinkle relaxation |
| C/D | NaturePreserve™ Ultra | 1.0 | 0.25 | |
| C/D | Bisabolol | 0.2 | 0.05 | |
| C/D | Magnesium Sulfate | 0.2 | 0.05 | |
| TOTAL | 100.0 % | 25.00 g |
คำตอบ
Based on your goal of creating a matte, pore-blurring, anti-aging SPF with zero eye irritation, switching to a physical sunscreen like Titanium Zinc NanoLiquid™ DEC (ID: 35572) is an excellent first step. Physical sunscreens are generally much less irritating to the eyes than chemical sunscreens like the previous AquaForce™ BEMT (ID: 127242).
Here is a review of your formula, focusing on potential eye irritants and stability:
1. Eye Irritation Review
The eye irritation you experienced previously, and the potential for irritation in this new formula, is likely due to ingredients other than the sunscreen itself, particularly those that are film-forming or contain volatile preservatives.
| Ingredient | % in Formula | Eye Safety Assessment | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chamomile Oil (Essential Oil) | N/A | HIGH RISK. Essential oils, including Chamomile Oil (German, Blue) (ID: 3193), contain volatile compounds that are known to cause eye stinging and irritation, especially in products that migrate. | DO NOT ADD. Rely on the Chamomile Water (ID: 1308) for a mild soothing effect. |
| FlashTenser™ (ID: 7931) | 1.5% | MODERATE RISK. This ingredient works by forming a tightening film (Dextrin-based). If the product migrates into the eye, the film-forming effect can cause a drying or tightening sensation that is perceived as a "burn" or irritation later in the day. It also contains Phenoxyethanol/Ethylhexylglycerin. | Consider reducing or replacing. If you keep it, ensure the formula is highly stable to prevent migration. |
| Preservatives | Varies | HIGH RISK. Your formula contains Phenoxyethanol from Chamomile Water (ID: 1308) and FlashTenser™ (ID: 7931), plus 1.0% NaturePreserve™ Ultra (composition unknown, but likely a blend). High total preservative load, especially Phenoxyethanol, is a common cause of eye sting. | Reduce total preservative load and ensure the final pH is eye-compatible (typically pH 7.0-7.4 for eye products). |
| Silky Serum Base Plus (ID: 710) | 14.0% | LOW RISK. This base is explicitly marketed for use on the face and around the eyes. | Safe to use. |
2. Formulation Stability and Texture Review
Your formula is an emulsion (likely Water-in-Silicone/Oil) using Silky Serum Base Plus (ID: 710) and Titanium Zinc NanoLiquid™ DEC (ID: 35572).
- Oil Phase Concentration: Your total oil/silicone phase is 30.2%, which is right at the maximum recommended 30% for Silky Serum Base Plus. This high concentration makes the emulsion inherently less stable and more prone to separation, which can lead to concentrated irritants migrating into the eye.
- Recommendation for Stability: To improve stability and reduce the risk of migration:
- Reduce the Oil Phase: Try reducing Silky Serum Base Plus (ID: 710) from 14.0% to 10-12% and increase the water phase accordingly.
- Increase Stabilizer: Ensure you are using the recommended amount of Magnesium Sulfate (0.2%) to help stabilize the W/O emulsion.
Summary of Changes for Eye Safety
To eliminate eye irritation, focus on reducing the ingredients most likely to cause sting:
- Remove Chamomile Oil (Essential Oil): Do not add this for scent.
- Reduce or Remove FlashTenser™ (ID: 7931): If you must keep it, reduce the percentage.
- Optimize Preservatives: Check the INCI of NaturePreserve™ Ultra and ensure the total concentration of known irritants (like Phenoxyethanol) is minimized.
- Improve Stability: Reduce the total oil phase to ensure the emulsion is robust and less likely to break or migrate. The use of SiliSilk™ 5H (ID: 497) and QuikBlur™ (ID: 2234) for blurring is safe and compatible with this system.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Silky Serum Base Plus (Face/Eye, Oil)
Chamomile Water (Anthemis Nobilis)
Chamomile Oil (German, Blue)
FlashTenser™ (Quick Skin Tenser)
