Pilling Issue in Silicone-Based Sunscreen Formulation with High Powder Content

How to Fix Pilling in Your Formulation

You're experiencing pilling with your cosmetic formulation, which is a common issue, especially in products containing high levels of powders and silicones.

Why Pilling Happens:

Pilling often occurs when ingredients, particularly powders (like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide) or certain polymers and silicones, are not fully compatible or properly dispersed in the formulation. When applied to the skin, these ingredients can aggregate and roll up, creating small "pills" or flakes.

Analysis of Your Formula:

In your specific formula, the high percentage of powders (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, and Iron Oxides) combined with silicones (Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone) and the cream maker is the likely cause of the pilling. The powders may not be adequately dispersed or stabilized within the liquid and silicone phases.

Suggested Solution:

The most effective way to address pilling in this type of formulation is to improve the dispersion of the powders.

1. Disperse Powders Properly: Before combining all ingredients, thoroughly disperse the Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, and Beige Iron Oxides in a suitable phase. The silicone phase (Cyclomethicone + Dimethicone) or another compatible oil phase is often a good vehicle for dispersing these powders. Use a high shear mixer (like a homogenizer or high-speed stirrer) to ensure the powders are finely and evenly distributed without clumps.
2. Combine Phases Carefully: Once the powders are well-dispersed in their phase, slowly add this dispersion to the water phase containing the cream maker and preservative, while continuing to mix. Ensure complete emulsification and homogeneity.

Other Considerations:

• Light Cream Maker: The specific type and amount of your "Light Cream Maker" can also influence stability and texture. Ensure it is compatible with both the oil/silicone phase and the high powder load. You might need to experiment with the concentration or try a different emulsifier suitable for high-solid formulations.
• Mixing Procedure: Review your overall mixing process. Ensure each ingredient is fully incorporated before adding the next. Avoid over-mixing or insufficient mixing at different stages.

By focusing on achieving a perfect dispersion of your powders and ensuring all phases are well-integrated, you should be able to significantly reduce or eliminate the pilling issue.