Powder Formula Adjustment for Increased Coverage
Question
I want to adjust my powder formula to increase coverage. I am considering replacing Silk Sericite Powder with Silk Mica Powder entirely. Will this help increase coverage?
Also, should I increase the proportion of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide? If I need to add a lot of white pigments like Titanium Dioxide, how can I manage the color to prevent a white cast or looking too pale?
Answer
Powder Formula Adjustment for Increased Coverage
Based on your original formula and the suggestions provided to increase coverage without excessive thickness, I propose the following adjustments:
Principles of Adjustment:
- Increase Covering Agents: The primary ingredients providing coverage in your formula are Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Increasing their proportion will directly enhance the opacity of the powder.
- Adjust Filler Powder Type: Mica and Sericite are filler powders that contribute to texture, skin adherence, and spreadability. Mica generally has slightly larger particles than Sericite, which can help improve coverage as suggested.
Modified Formula (Example):
From the original formula (total 100% excluding Iron Oxides):
- Silk Mica Powder: 30%
- Silk Sericite Powder: 35%
- Magnesium Stearate: 10%
- AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine): 10%
- Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™: 5%
- Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™: 5%
- BB Micro Silk™: 5%
Adjusted to (total 100% excluding Iron Oxides):
- Silk Mica Powder: Increased to 57% (Replacing the original Sericite and slightly adjusting the overall proportion)
- Magnesium Stearate: 10% (Unchanged)
- AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine): 10% (Unchanged)
- Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™: Increased to 10%
- Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™: Increased to 8%
- BB Micro Silk™: 5% (Unchanged)
Explanation of Changes:
- Replace Silk Sericite Powder with Silk Mica Powder: As suggested, replacing the 35% Sericite with Mica, combined with the original 30% Mica, initially results in a total Mica of 65%. This was then slightly reduced (to 57%) to make room for increased covering agents like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. Using Mica instead of Sericite should contribute to better coverage.
- Increase Titanium Dioxide Nano EasyDisperse™: Increased from 5% to 10% to directly boost the opacity and covering power of the powder.
- Increase Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™: Increased from 5% to 8% to further enhance coverage and improve UV protection performance.
Additional Considerations:
- Iron Oxides EasyMix™: The proportion of Iron Oxides (Yellow, Red, Black) will need to be adjusted as needed to achieve the desired skin tone, as the amount of white pigments (Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide) has increased.
- Texture: Increasing the proportion of covering agents might make the powder feel slightly heavier. However, maintaining the proportions of AminoSilk™ and BB Micro Silk™ should help preserve the smooth feel and soft-focus properties.
- Testing: It is recommended to make a small test batch first to fine-tune the proportions and achieve the desired coverage and texture.
This adjusted formula should help improve the coverage of your powder.
Related Products Mentioned
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
BB Micro Silk™
Yellow Iron Oxides EasyMix™
Red Iron Oxides EasyMix™
Black Iron Oxides EasyMix™
Magnesium Stearate
AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine)
Mica Powder (20 Micron, Silane Coated)