Preventing Discoloration and Spoilage in Cosmetic Active Ingredients

To prevent discoloration in cosmetic products, especially within the active ingredients, two main groups of substances can be used: Preservatives to inhibit microbial growth, and Antioxidants to prevent degradation from oxidation. Both of these factors are significant causes of color change in cosmetics.

Here are examples of ingredients that help in these areas, along with their properties and recommended usage percentages:

Preservatives

This group of substances inhibits the growth of bacteria, fungi, and yeast, which is one cause of product degradation and discoloration.

• NaturePreserve™ LB2: A broad-spectrum preservative with high efficacy at low pH values (2.0-6.5). Recommended usage: 0.5-1.0%.
• Global Guard™ 221: A water-soluble broad-spectrum preservative usable in a wide pH range (2-7). Recommended usage: 0.5-1.1%.
• Mild Preserved™ COS: An odorless, water-soluble broad-spectrum preservative usable in pH 2-8. Recommended usage: 0.75-1.5%.
• Preserve-BSB™: A broad-spectrum preservative effective up to pH 5.5. Recommended usage: 0.3-1.0%.
• NaturePreserve™ Ultra: A natural broad-spectrum preservative (bacteria, fungi, yeast) usable in pH 3-6. Recommended usage: 0.75-2.0%.
• Ethylhexylglycerin: A gentle preservative and humectant, usable in pH 2-12. Recommended usage: 0.3-1.0% (should be used in combination with other preservatives).
• Dehydroacetic Acid: A natural preservative effective against yeast and molds but not bacteria. Should be used with other antibacterial preservatives. Soluble in alcohol.
• Sorbic Acid: A preservative soluble in oil or organic solvents. Maximum usage rate is 0.6% according to FDA regulations.

Antioxidants

This group of substances helps prevent the degradation of ingredients in the formula, especially active ingredients sensitive to oxidation, which can lead to discoloration.

• Protec™ OX: Helps protect ingredients easily degraded by free radicals or oxidation, such as Vitamin C, Vitamin A. More effective than Vitamin E. Recommended usage: 0.01-0.5%.
• ActiveProtec™ OX: A high-performance antioxidant that effectively prevents discoloration in formulas, especially whitening formulas. Water-soluble, usable above pH 4. Recommended usage: 0.1-1.0%.
• Hydroxyacetophenone: Acts as both an antioxidant, helping maintain ingredient quality, and a Preservative Booster, enhancing preservative efficacy. Also has soothing properties. Recommended usage: 0.1-1.0%.
• tert-Butylhydroquinone (TBHQ): An antioxidant for maintaining ingredient quality. Recommended usage: 0.01-0.1%.
• Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol: An antioxidant more effective than Vitamin E. Helps prevent the degradation of natural oils and plant extracts. Recommended usage: 1%.
• Glutathione: A high-purity antioxidant that also helps with skin brightening through oxidation prevention. Should be mixed in water, temperature not exceeding 40°C, and pH 3-6. Recommended usage: 1-3%.
• Astaxanthin: A powerful antioxidant that helps protect skin from UV damage. Should be mixed in the final step, temperature not exceeding 40°C, and preferably used with ActiveProtec OX/UV. Recommended usage: 0.1-1%.

When selecting preservatives and antioxidants, consider the product type, formula pH, sensitivity of active ingredients to degradation, regulatory requirements (such as FDA), and perform Challenge Testing to ensure efficacy and compatibility with the specific formula.