Preventing Separation in Balm with Chili Extract in Propylene Glycol

Asked by: saranya.zom On: November 17, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a balm using chili extract that is extracted with `Propylene Glycol`. When I add the chili extract to the other ingredients, it separates. How can I make the extract compatible with the other ingredients in the balm?

Answer

In the process of making balm containing chili extract dissolved in Propylene Glycol, separation occurs because the extract in Propylene Glycol is a polar substance, while the main ingredients of balm, which are oils and fats, are non-polar substances. For these two groups of substances to mix together, a bridging agent called an Emulsifier or Solubilizer is needed.

Emulsifiers or Solubilizers help connect the oil/fat part with the Propylene Glycol part containing the dissolved chili extract, allowing them to disperse well and form a homogeneous mixture without separating.

Based on the search results, there are several products that can help with this issue, especially in the Solubilizer and Emulsifier categories:

  • Oil Blender™ (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate): This is a Water-in-Oil Emulsifier designed to help combine water and oil phases, or blend various types of oils together. It is particularly suitable for oil-based or balm formulations. Using Oil Blender™ will help the balm texture become smooth and well-mixed without separation. It is recommended to use at a concentration of 1-5% by mixing it into the oil phase and heating to around 70°C to aid dissolution and emulsification.

  • Solubilizer group (e.g., Flora Solve™ Clear, Ultra Solve™, Eco Solve™, Free Solve™): This group of Solubilizers has the property of helping to dissolve oils or oil-soluble substances into water. They are often used in clear aqueous solutions or water gels. Although primarily used in water systems, they can also help disperse the polar extract in Propylene Glycol into the oil phase. Generally, a higher ratio of Solubilizer to the extract needing to be dissolved is used (e.g., 2-5 times). The method is to mix the Solubilizer with the chili extract dissolved in Propylene Glycol first, and then add this mixture to the other ingredients in the balm.

For balm, which is primarily oil/fat based, using Oil Blender™, an Emulsifier designed specifically for oil formulations, is recommended as it is likely to be the most effective in incorporating the chili extract in Propylene Glycol into the balm base effectively.