Question about EN product

Question

Evaluate ingredients and method for Face Cream with Perfect C and Matrixyl 3000
I did a test to check stability with minimal ingredients to see if light cream would form with phases heated to less than 60 degrees and then cool down to 45 degrees before using a stick blender to emulsify and cream formed and stable and did not split.
Basic formula was :
Test first with Water , Sepimax Zen and no extras 100.00
Heated water phase - Heat to 50 Degrees %
Distilled water 74.00%
EDTA 0.25%
Sepimax Zen - Thickener 0.30%
Total Water Phase 74.55%
Heated oil phase (can have 30% Oil with this emulsifyer
Note only heat Oil until 50 degrees and let cool down below 45 before emulsifying
Lipomulse Emulsifying Wax (Non-Ionic) INCI : Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, Ceteareth-20 4.00%
Cetyl Alcohol 2.50%
MCT Oil to Test 18.25%
Total Oil Phase 24.75%
Cooldown
Preservative INCI : Liquid Germall Plus - Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate. 0.50%
Vit E (70% tocopherols) 0.20%
Total Cooldown Phase below 40 Degrees C 0.70%
Total 100.00%

I want to make a cream with the following ingredients and also wonder if I could include Panthenol Vitamin B5 powder 2% in the water phase ( I would reduce Water % to include the Panthenol so total formula 100% if no contradictions with using Perfect C etc) - The proposed formula is:
Face Cream - with Perfect C and Matrixyl 3000 100.00
Heated water phase - Heat to 50 Degrees %
Distilled water 63.10%
Pentylene glycol (Oil and Water Soluble) 2.00%
EDTA 0.20%
Sepimax Zen - Thickener 0.30%
Total Water Phase 65.60%
Heated oil phase (can have 30% Oil with this emulsifyer
Note only heat Oil until <55 degrees and let cool down below 45 degrees before adding Perfect C
Lipomulse Emulsifying Wax (Non-Ionic) INCI : Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, Ceteareth-20 4.00%
Cetyl Alcohol 2.50%
Squalane 5.50%
Coco-Caprylate 5.00%
Isoamyl Laurate 3.00%
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) 4.00%
Total Oil Phase 24.00%
Cooldown
Preservative INCI : Liquid Germall - Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate. 0.50%
Vit E (70% tocopherols) 0.40%
Ethoxydiglycol (EDG) 2.50%
Ferulic Acid 1.00%
Matrixyl™ 3000 3.00%
Double Hyaluron Liquid 3.00%
Total Cooldown Phase below 40 Degrees C 10.40%
Total 100.00%
I planned adding Perfect C in heated oil phase when oil phase is below 45 degrees or would I be better off adding in Cooldown once emulsions is formed with the other cooldown ingredients? Thanks for your advice.

Answer 1

Your proposed formula is well-structured and the ingredients are generally compatible. Using Sepimax Zen alongside a non-ionic emulsifying wax provides excellent stability, especially when incorporating electrolytes or active ingredients like Vitamin C derivatives.

1. Can you include 2% Panthenol (Vitamin B5)?

Yes, you can certainly include Panthenol (Vitamin B5) at 2% in the water phase. It is highly water-soluble and stable under the heating conditions you described (50-55°C). It provides excellent moisturizing and soothing benefits and does not contradict the use of Perfect-C™.

2. When to add Perfect-C™?

Your plan to add Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) to the oil phase once it has cooled to below 45°C is ideal. While this specific form of Vitamin C is heat-stable for short periods, adding it during the cooling stage of the oil phase ensures maximum potency. Since it is oil-soluble, incorporating it into the oil phase before emulsification allows for more uniform distribution than adding it to a finished cold emulsion.

3. Technical Recommendations for Stability and Efficacy

pH Control (Critical): For Perfect-C™ to remain stable and effective, the final pH of the cream must be adjusted to between 5.0 and 5.5. If the pH exceeds 6.0, the Vitamin C may begin to degrade.
Chelating Agent: You have correctly included EDTA at 0.2%. This is mandatory when using Perfect-C™ in a water-containing formula to prevent metal ions from catalyzing oxidation.
Ferulic Acid Solubility: Pure-Ferulic Acid™ must be completely dissolved in Ethoxydiglycol (EDG) before being added to the cooldown phase. A 1% concentration of Ferulic Acid in 2.5% EDG is achievable, but ensure it is a clear solution before mixing it into the cream.
Matrixyl™ 3000: This peptide should always be added in the cooldown phase (below 40°C) to maintain its structural integrity.

Revised Formula Suggestion (100% Total)

Phase	Ingredient	%
Water	Distilled Water	61.10
	Panthenol (Vitamin B5)	2.00
	Pentylene Glycol	2.00
	EDTA	0.20
	Sepimax Zen	0.30
Oil	Emulsifying Wax (Non-Ionic)	4.00
	Cetyl Alcohol	2.50
	Squalane	5.50
	Coco-Caprylate	5.00
	Isoamyl Laurate	3.00
	Perfect-C™ (Add at <45°C)	4.00
Cooldown	Preservative	0.50
	Vitamin E	0.40
	Ethoxydiglycol (EDG)	2.50
	Pure-Ferulic Acid™ (Pre-dissolve in EDG)	1.00
	Matrixyl™ 3000	3.00
	Double Hyaluron Liquid	3.00
Total		100.00

Mixing Note: After emulsifying and cooling to room temperature, check the pH and adjust it to 5.0–5.5 using a citric acid solution or triethanolamine as needed.