Questions about Wax Stick Formulation: Silicone, Wax Percentage, and Mica for Sensitive Skin

Question

Regarding a wax-based stick formulation (similar to a cover stick): Will adding silicone, specifically Cyclomethicone, to a wax-based formula cause separation, especially if the formula contains no water? Should Microcrystalline Wax be included in the formula? Is SiliSolve Plus necessary? In a previous discussion, it was mentioned that 12% wax might not be hard enough for a stick. If the formula uses 20% wax (like Beeswax in a sample), is this percentage sufficient to make the stick hard enough for packaging, while still achieving a soft but non-breaking texture similar to Eucerin cover stick? For someone who is sensitive to glitter (which causes itchiness on the skin), which types of Mica or color powders should be avoided? Is Pearl Powder safe to use, and if so, what type should be chosen?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

We apologize for the delay. The team has compiled the answers to your questions as follows:

Will silicone and wax separate: Based on the staff's advice, if the formula contains no water, Cyclomethicone silicone can mix well with wax, and separation should not occur.
Should Microcrystalline Wax be included: Microcrystalline Wax can be used in the formula.
Is SiliSolve Plus necessary: SiliSolve Plus is not necessary for this formula.
Is 20% wax hard enough for a stick format: The sample formula provided by the staff uses 20% Beeswax, which is a usable proportion for stick products. However, to achieve the soft yet non-breaking texture like the Eucerin cover stick you desire, you may need to experiment with adjusting the proportions and types of waxes, as well as other ingredients in the formula.
Choosing Mica for sensitive skin: If you experience allergic reactions or irritation from glitter (which is often large particle Mica), the staff recommends avoiding Mica with large particle sizes and choosing Mica or Sericite with small particle sizes, especially coated types like Silk Mica Powder or Silk Sericite Powder, which are less likely to irritate the skin. Pearl Powder is also a type of Mica, so you should choose pearl powder with small, fine particles.

We hope this information is helpful in developing your formula. Please feel free to ask if you have any further questions.

Thank you,
MySkinRecipes Team