Recommendations for the Treatment Gel Formula

The proposed Treatment Gel formula contains several interesting ingredients targeting acne, acne marks, and dark spots, utilizing AHA and BHA along with natural extracts and vitamins. However, there are a few points to consider and potentially adjust to ensure the formula is balanced, safe, and optimally effective.

Considerations and Improvement Suggestions:

• Concentration of Actives (AHA/BHA): The formula includes 10% Glycolic Acid and BHA from multiple sources (Willow Bark Extract, Acacia Salicylic Acid, Zinc Pyrithione (Dandruff, Sebderm) Liquid). This is a very high concentration for a leave-on product. Even with weekly use, it can easily cause irritation, dryness, or peeling, especially on sensitive skin. Consider reducing the total concentration of AHA/BHA or opting for milder BHA sources like ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid to minimize irritation.
• pH Control: The efficacy and stability of AHA and BHA, as well as Niacinamide (Safe-B3) (which can be unstable at very low pH), are highly pH-dependent. Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™) requires neutralization with Triethanolamine 99% to form a gel. Measuring and adjusting the final pH of the formula to an appropriate range (recommended around 4.0-4.5) is crucial for the actives to work effectively and for overall formula stability.
• Preservation System: The inclusion of Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) at 1% may not be sufficient to prevent microbial growth in a water-based formula containing multiple natural extracts, which are prone to contamination. This is a critical point. It is strongly recommended to switch to an effective broad-spectrum preservative system, such as Mild Preserved™ COS, at the manufacturer's recommended concentration to ensure product safety.
• Thickener System: Using 1% Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) together with 1% Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse™) might result in an overly viscous or gummy texture. Experiment with reducing the total amount of thickeners or adjusting the ratio between Xanthan Gum and Carbomer 940 to achieve the desired texture.
• Compatibility and Mixing: Certain ingredients like Phytosphingosine (90% Purity) and Zinc Pyrithione (Dandruff, Sebderm) Liquid require specific mixing methods as they are not water-soluble. They should be dissolved or dispersed in an appropriate phase before being incorporated into the main formula. Long-term compatibility of all ingredients should also be considered.
• Formula Stability: Stability testing of the final product under different storage conditions is recommended to ensure the formula remains stable (no separation, changes in color, odor, or viscosity) and the active ingredients retain their efficacy throughout the product's shelf life.
• Extract Standardization: For natural extracts like Willow Bark Extract, Calendula Extract (Water Soluble), Aloe Vera Extract (extraction ratio 10:1 FullAssay™), Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%), and Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract, 98% EGCG), using standardized extracts ensures consistent levels of active compounds and predictable efficacy.

Summary of Recommended Adjustments:

1. Adjust AHA/BHA Concentration: Consider reducing the total concentration or using milder BHA forms.
2. Measure and Adjust pH: Control the final pH of the formula to around 4.0-4.5 using Triethanolamine 99%.
3. Change Preservative: Use an effective broad-spectrum preservative like Mild Preserved™ COS.
4. Adjust Thickeners: Experiment with the amounts and ratio of Xanthan Gum and Carbomer 940.
5. Verify Mixing Methods: Ensure correct incorporation of ingredients like Phytosphingosine (90% Purity) and Zinc Pyrithione (Dandruff, Sebderm) Liquid.
6. Perform Stability and Irritation Testing: Conduct necessary tests before widespread use.

The formula has a good foundation for addressing acne and related concerns. Implementing these adjustments will help create a safer, more effective, and stable product.