Reducing Stickiness in Serum Formulation
Question
I am developing a serum formulation and am experiencing stickiness after it dries on the skin. My skin type is normal to dry, and the current hydration level is sufficient.
My questions are:
- Is the formula overloaded with ingredients, causing the stickiness?
- Would removing WaterLock help reduce the stickiness?
- Can PE1-Aqua be used in the formula, given that pentylene glycol is already present? You previously advised against using them together. For this type of formula, which one should be used and at what percentage?
- Can Isododecane help reduce the stickiness?
Answer
Subject: Reducing Stickiness in Your Serum Formula
Hello,
Thank you for providing your serum formula and questions. Based on your description, the serum feels good initially but becomes sticky as it dries. You mentioned your skin is normal to dry and the current hydration level is sufficient.
Let's address your questions and the staff's recommendations:
- Is the formula overloaded? Your formula contains several excellent moisturizing and active ingredients. While not necessarily "overloaded" in a negative sense, the combination and concentration of multiple humectants (like Creatine, Inositol, Pitera, Repair Activator, B3, Amino Acids, Trehalose, WaterLock, Pentylene Glycol) along with the thickener (Pro Polymer) can collectively contribute to a sticky or tacky feel upon drying.
- Removing WaterLock? WaterLock (Polyquaternium-51) is a moisturizing film-former that can contribute to stickiness. While removing it might help reduce stickiness, the staff's primary recommendation focuses on improving the texture by adding emollients, which is a more direct way to address the feel without removing a potentially beneficial ingredient.
- PE1-Aqua vs. Pentylene Glycol? Both are penetration enhancers. The staff indicated PE1-Aqua can be used with pentylene glycol, but adding it is primarily for enhancing penetration, not for reducing stickiness. The recommended solutions for stickiness are emollients.
- Isododecane? The staff confirmed Isododecane can help reduce stickiness and provide a dry feel. However, they noted it can cause skin irritation, especially at higher concentrations (though your proposed use for texture modification would likely be at a lower percentage). For sensitive skin, other options might be preferable.
Recommendations for Reducing Stickiness:
Based on the staff's advice, the most effective way to reduce the stickiness of your serum is to incorporate emollients that improve skin feel without adding significant hydration. The staff suggested two main approaches:
- Option 1: Add a Powder Emollient. These provide a dry, silky feel. The staff recommended adding around 3% of:
- PowderCream [ID 519]
- SiliSilk™ [ID 497] (highlighted as providing good slip and being cost-effective)
- AminoSilk™ [ID 330]
- Option 2: Add a Liquid Emollient. The staff specifically recommended adding around 5% of:
- LipidSoft™ Dry [ID 656]
These emollients work by providing slip and reducing the tacky feel left by water-soluble humectants and polymers as the serum dries.
Suggestion:
Given that your current hydration level is sufficient, try adding one of the recommended emollients to your formula. SiliSilk™ [ID 497] or LipidSoft™ Dry [ID 656] seem like good starting points based on the staff's comments. Start with the suggested percentage and adjust if needed.
Using an emollient is a more targeted approach to improve the texture and reduce stickiness compared to removing active ingredients or adding more penetration enhancers.
We hope this helps you achieve the desired texture for your serum!
Related Products Mentioned
Isododecane (Germany)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine)
PowderCream™ (Water Absorbing PMMA)
LipidSoft™ Dry