Review and Adjustment of Anti-Aging & Brightening Essence Formulas

Question

I have developed two essence formulas for normal to dry skin, age 40+, targeting sagging, wrinkles, non-deep melasma, and aiming for a liquid but viscous texture. I would like to ask about the suitability of the formulas and mixing methods.

Formula 1 (Anti-Aging & Lifting):

Repair Activator™ 10%
Laurocapram 2%
Yeast Radiance™ 3%
Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) 0.5%
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) 0.5%
Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free) 40 %
น้ำกลั่น 35.5%
nano silver Pure™ 1%
Methylsilanol Mannuronate 5%
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl L-Tyrosine) 2%
Satin Cream Maker™ 0.5%

Mixing method for Formula 1: Dissolve all actives in water, add Hyaluronic Acid until the texture is similar to Hada Labo, then add Satin Cream Maker to increase viscosity. Is this method correct?

Formula 2 (Brightening):

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (Pitera) 30%
Laurocapram 2%
GlucoBright™ 4%
Safe-B3™ 5%
Ume Extract 2%
น้ำกลั่น 46%
Natto Gum 5%
nano silver Pure™ 1%
FruitPeel™ 1%
Satin Cream Maker™ 1%

Mixing method for Formula 2: Dissolve all actives in water, then add Satin Cream Maker to increase viscosity. Is this method correct?

I understand that nano silver Pure™ is included potentially as a preservative alternative. Please advise on the effectiveness and suitability of these formulas and mixing methods, as well as any recommended adjustments.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Essence Formula Review

Hello,

Regarding your two essence formulas for normal to dry skin, age 40+, with concerns about sagging, wrinkles, non-deep melasma, and desiring a liquid yet viscous texture:

Both formulas can be mixed using the methods you described.

Regarding Texture:

Satin Cream Maker can indeed help achieve a liquid but viscous texture that is easy to use.
For the first formula, you can add Satin Cream Maker at the end and mix by hand to increase viscosity.
For the second formula, using Satin Cream Maker at 1% might still result in a liquid texture. If you prefer it thicker, you can increase it to 1.5%.

Regarding Ingredients and Adjustments:

Hyaluronic Acid: For easier handling, especially for beginners, using liquid forms like Double Hyaluron Liquid (already in your second formula) or Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer is recommended over powder forms (used in your first formula).
Preservative (nano silver Pure): nano silver Pure does not address your stated skin concerns (sagging, moisture, melasma, wrinkles). Furthermore, its proper dispersion in the formula requires a homogenizer; hand mixing may not be sufficient. The staff recommends replacing nano silver Pure with a very gentle preservative like Mild Preserved Eco at 1% for easier mixing and effective preservation.
For Wrinkles (Formula 1): For skin aged 40+, incorporating gentle exfoliants can enhance wrinkle reduction. The staff suggests adding FruitPeel at 3-5% to your first formula. (If adding FruitPeel, remember to reduce the amount of distilled water accordingly to keep the total at 100%).
For Brightening (Formula 2): The ingredients you've chosen are suitable for brightening purposes.

Summary of Recommended Adjustments:

Replace nano silver Pure with Mild Preserved Eco 1% in both formulas (reduce distilled water by 1%).
(For Formula 1) Consider adding FruitPeel 3-5% (adjust distilled water accordingly).
(For Formula 2) If a thicker texture is desired, increase Satin Cream Maker to 1.5% (reduce distilled water by 0.5%).

Please remember to recalculate the distilled water amount whenever you adjust the percentages of other ingredients to ensure the total is 100%.