Review and Adjustment of Multi-Benefit Serum Formula (Whitening, Anti-aging, Oil Control, Moisturizing)
คำถาม
Please review and adjust the following formula for a serum targeting skin whitening, anti-aging, oil control, and moisturization. The formula should be suitable for storage at room temperature.
Proposed Formula:
- Safe-B3: 5%
- GlucoBright: 4%
- 4MSK: 2%
- Z-White: 1%
- Vitamin B5 ExtraLite: 2%
- DMAE: 3%
- Encapsulated Retinol: 2%
- Lactobionic Acid: 2%
- Ampho-Glycolic: 2%
- Zinc PCA: 1%
- L-Carnitine: 2%
- Copper PCA: 1%
- Creatine 100: 0.5%
- Glycerin 99.5%: 5%
- 1,2-Hexanediol: 3%
- Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): 0.5%
- AnyGel: 1%
- Water: 63%
Mixing Instructions:
Combine ingredients 1-16 and 18. Add ingredient 17 last.
Thank you.
คำตอบ
Okay, I have reviewed your proposed formula for skin whitening, anti-aging, oil control, and moisturization, designed for room temperature storage.
Your formula includes a good selection of active ingredients known for these benefits:
- Whitening: Safe-B3, GlucoBright, 4MSK, Z-White, Lactobionic Acid, Ampho-Glycolic.
- Anti-aging: Safe-B3, DMAE, Encapsulated Retinol, Lactobionic Acid, Ampho-Glycolic, Copper PCA, Creatine 100.
- Oil Control: Safe-B3, Z-White, L-Carnitine, Copper PCA.
- Moisturization: Safe-B3, GlucoBright, Vitamin B5 ExtraLite, L-Carnitine, Creatine 100, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol.
The inclusion of Niacinamide (Safe-B3) and Acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright) is excellent for synergistic whitening and other benefits. DMAE and Vitamin B5 also work well together. The use of Encapsulated Retinol helps with stability and potentially reduces irritation compared to free retinol. 1,2-Hexanediol is a good choice as a solvent, humectant, and preservative booster, supporting the use of Phenoxyethanol at 0.5% for room temperature storage (though a challenge test is always recommended). AnyGel is suitable for creating a gel texture that is resistant to electrolytes from the various salt-form ingredients.
However, there is a significant potential issue with the inclusion of Ampho-Glycolic alongside several other ingredients, particularly Encapsulated Retinol. Ampho-Glycolic is a form of Glycolic Acid solution with a very low pH (1.5-2.5). While designed to be less irritating than standard Glycolic Acid, its low pH can cause problems in a formula containing ingredients that require a higher pH for optimal stability, solubility, or efficacy, such as Zinc PCA (optimal pH 4-6), Copper PCA (optimal pH 4-6), L-Carnitine (optimal pH 3.5-8, use at 4-7), Safe-B3 (optimal pH 4-7), GlucoBright (pH 3-7), and Vitamin B5 ExtraLite (optimal pH 4-7).
Combining a low pH acid like Ampho-Glycolic with Retinol (even encapsulated) can also lead to increased skin irritation and potential degradation of the Retinol over time, despite the encapsulation offering some protection.
To create a more stable and less irritating formula while still addressing your goals, it is recommended to remove the Ampho-Glycolic. The formula still contains Lactobionic Acid for exfoliation and several other powerful anti-aging and whitening ingredients.
Here is a revised formula without Ampho-Glycolic and adjusted water percentage, along with suggested mixing instructions:
Revised Formula (without Ampho-Glycolic)
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
- GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): 4%
- 4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate): 2%
- Z-White™ (Zinc Glycinate): 1%
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ (Ethyl Panthenol): 2%
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 3%
- Encapsulated Retinol (65K.IU/g): 2%
- Lactobionic Acid: 2%
- Zinc PCA: 1%
- L-Carnitine (Carnitine): 2%
- Copper PCA: 1%
- Creatine 100: 0.5%
- Glycerin (USP/Food Grade): 5%
- 1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless): 3%
- Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): 0.5%
- AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum): 1%
- Water: 65.5%
Total: 100%
Mixing Instructions
- In a beaker, combine Water, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, and Phenoxyethanol. Stir until homogenous.
- Add Safe-B3, GlucoBright, 4MSK, Z-White, Vitamin B5 ExtraLite, Lactobionic Acid, Zinc PCA, L-Carnitine, Copper PCA, and Creatine 100 to the water mixture. Stir well to dissolve all powders. Gentle warming (below 40°C) can be used if needed, but avoid prolonged heat. Ensure L-Carnitine powder is kept sealed and away from moisture before use.
- Once all powders are dissolved and the mixture is below 40°C, add DMAE Liquid and Encapsulated Retinol. Stir gently until fully dispersed. Avoid excessive stirring that incorporates air.
- Check the pH of the mixture. It should ideally be in the range of 4.0-6.0 for optimal stability and solubility of Zinc PCA and Copper PCA, and suitability for other actives. Adjust pH if necessary using a suitable acid or base.
- Slowly add AnyGel powder to the mixture while stirring vigorously with a homogenizer or high-speed mixer until a smooth gel is formed. Ensure the AnyGel is fully hydrated and dispersed.
- Package the product in airtight containers, protected from light.
This revised formula maintains the key benefits you are seeking while addressing potential compatibility and irritation issues related to the low pH of Ampho-Glycolic.
Remember that performing a challenge test is crucial to confirm the effectiveness of the preservative system in your final product, especially for room temperature storage.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
Zinc PCA
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless)
Creatine 100
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)
AnyGel™
Encapsulated Retinol (65K.IU/g)
Lactobionic Acid
Copper PCA