Review and Adjustments for DIY Gel Formulation

ถามโดย: thongdeb เมื่อ: November 16, 2018 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I would like to try producing a gel for personal use. I'm unsure which parts of the following formula need adjustment and what changes should be made. I'm open to any recommendations as I have never formulated before and have been studying from the MySkinRecipes website.

Here is the formula:

  1. Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ - 3%
  2. Fragrance Hydro Skin (compare to IOPE) - 1%
  3. Trans-Resveratrol (Powder, 98%) - 2%
  4. Ethoxydiglycol - 1%
  5. Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%) - 0.05%
  6. Gel Maker Pro Polymer™ - 2%
  7. nano silver Pure™ - 1%
  8. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) - 3%
  9. SPF Protect Ultra™ II - 4.5%
  10. Butylene Glycol - 1%
  11. Distilled Water (Sterile) - 79.35%
  12. Brilliant Blue‎ (CI42090) (Water-Soluble) - 1%
  13. Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) - 1%
  14. Disodium EDTA - 0.1% (concerned about insufficient preservation)

Please advise on necessary adjustments and recommendations.

คำตอบ

Formula Review and Recommendations

Thank you for sharing your gel formulation based on MySkinRecipes.com! It's a great start to experimenting with creating your own skincare products.

Based on the formula you provided, here are several points and recommendations for improvement to ensure the gel is effective, safe, and has a better texture:

Key Areas for Adjustment:

  1. Lack of Preservative:

    • This is the most critical issue in your formula. Disodium EDTA (item 14), included at 0.1%, is not a preservative. It is a chelating agent used to bind metal ions, which helps stabilize the formula and enhances the effectiveness of preservatives (if present).
    • Without a proper preservative system, the gel is highly susceptible to microbial contamination (bacteria, mold, yeast). This will not only cause the product to spoil quickly but can also be harmful to the skin when used.
    • Recommendation: It is absolutely essential to add a broad-spectrum preservative suitable for gel formulations and compatible with the other ingredients. The amount needed will depend on the specific preservative chosen.
  2. Gel Maker Concentration:

    • You've included Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) (item 6) at 2%, which is quite high. For this type of gelling agent, it's typically used at much lower concentrations (e.g., 0.5% - 1% or even less).
    • Potential Result: Using 2% may result in a gel that is excessively thick, viscous, or even gummy, making it difficult or unpleasant to use.
    • Recommendation: I recommend significantly reducing the amount of Pro Polymer™. You could start with 0.5% or 0.8% and gradually adjust until you achieve the desired gel texture.
  3. Colorant Concentration:

    • The Brilliant Blue‎ (CI42090) (item 12) is included at 1%, which is extremely high for a cosmetic colorant. Typically, these colors are used at very low concentrations, such as 0.001% - 0.01%.
    • Potential Result: A concentration of 1% will result in an intensely dark blue gel and is highly likely to stain skin or clothing.
    • Recommendation: Drastically reduce the amount of Brilliant Blue or omit it entirely if color is not essential to the product's function.
  4. Concentrations of Certain Actives:

    • For Trans-Resveratrol (item 3) 2% (98% Powder) and nano silver Pure™ (item 7) 1%, you should double-check the recommended usage rates for these specific raw materials to ensure they are within safe and optimally effective ranges. Using excessively high amounts may not provide additional benefits and could increase the risk of irritation or other issues.
    • SPF Protect Ultra™ II (item 9) 4.5%: If you intend this gel to provide significant sun protection, 4.5% may not yield a high SPF value, depending on the specific blend of sunscreens in this base. If a higher SPF is desired, you may need to increase the amount or consider a different SPF active.
  5. Formula Stability:

    • Several active ingredients in your formula, such as Resveratrol and Licorice Extract, are sensitive to light and air and can degrade easily.
    • Your formula does not include antioxidants specifically intended to help stabilize the overall formula (Antioxidant for formulation stability), apart from Resveratrol which acts as an active on the skin.
    • Recommendation: Consider adding an antioxidant to help preserve the formula's integrity, such as Vitamin E (Tocopherol) or Ferulic Acid, in an appropriate amount. Also, consider packaging that protects the product from light and air, such as an opaque or airless pump bottle.
  6. pH Adjustment:

    • The pH level of the gel is important for stability, the efficacy of many active ingredients (especially peptides and some extracts), and skin compatibility. Skincare products are typically formulated within a pH range of approximately 5-6.
    • Your formula does not mention pH adjustment, which is necessary after mixing the ingredients. You will need to use a small amount of an alkaline solution (like Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide Solution) or an acidic solution (like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid Solution) to adjust the pH to the desired range.
    • Recommendation: Prepare pH adjusting solutions and measure the pH after mixing to adjust it to the appropriate range.

Additional Tip for Beginners:

  • For your first formulation attempt, starting with a simpler formula containing fewer ingredients can make it easier to understand the role of each component and troubleshoot any issues that arise.

In Summary:

The most critical issue to address is adding a proper preservative for product safety. Additionally, you should significantly reduce the amounts of the gel maker and colorant, and consider formula stability and pH adjustment.

If you revise your formula and would like further feedback, feel free to share!

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Active Resveratrol™
Active Resveratrol™
เครื่องสำอาง
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
เครื่องสำอาง
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
เครื่องสำอาง
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™
เครื่องสำอาง
20nm Silver Pure™
20nm Silver Pure™
เครื่องสำอาง
SPF Protect Ultra™ II
SPF Protect Ultra™ II
เครื่องสำอาง
Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%)
Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%)
เครื่องสำอาง