Review of Anti-Aging Serum and Eye Cream Formulas

Question

Hello,

Please review the following two cosmetic formulas:

Formula 1: Serum for reducing melasma, freckles, and wrinkles

Intended user: Age 60, normal skin, with melasma, freckles, and age-related wrinkles.
Intended use: Morning and night.
Ingredients:
1. น้ำกลั่น 71.70%
2. Disodium EDTA 0.20%
3. Safe-B3 5%
4. GlucoBright 4%
5. Tranexamic Acid 3%
6. Panthenol Pro Vitamin B5 1%
7. beta glucan 5%
8. DMAE 3%
9. Wrinkle-Fill 2%
10. Mild Preserved Eco 1%
11. Polyethylene Glycol 1500 3%
12. Pro Polymer Gel Maker 1.1%
Mixing Procedure:
1. Combine 1 + 2 and stir until dissolved.
2. Combine 3 + 4 + 5 + 6 + 7 + 8 + 9 + 10 + 11 and mix well.
3. Combine part A (from step 1) with part B (from step 2) and blend well.
4. Add 12 + 15 (Note: Step 15 was not listed in ingredients, assuming this refers to 12 and 13 or a typo) into the mixture and blend until gel forms. Wait 3-5 days for bubbles to subside.
Questions regarding Formula 1:
- Does refrigerating the mixture while waiting for bubbles to subside affect the process (slow it down), or is leaving it at room temperature better? (Concerned about ingredient degradation at room temperature).
- Can this formula be expected to reduce melasma and freckles?
- Will using this formula morning and night result in a sticky texture?

Formula 2: Eye cream for reducing dark circles and wrinkles around the eyes

Intended user: Age 30-40, sleeps late, uses computer extensively for work.
Ingredients:
1. Safe B3 3%
2. GlucoBright 2%
3. Coffee Extract 1%
4. Rosehip oil 10%
5. Satin Cream Maker 2%
6. Mild Preserved exo 1%
7. น้ำกลั่น 82%
Mixing Procedure:
1. Combine ingredients 1 + 2 + 3 + 6 + 7 and mix well.
2. Add Satin Cream Maker and stir.
3. Add Rosehip oil and stir until a cream texture forms.
Question regarding Formula 2:
- Are the ingredients in this formula compatible for mixing?

Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Review: Anti-Aging Serum and Eye Cream

Here is a review of your two cosmetic formulations:

Serum for Melasma, Freckles, and Wrinkles (Age 60+, Normal Skin)

This formula contains several excellent active ingredients targeting melasma, freckles, and wrinkles, suitable for mature skin. The combination of Safe-B3, GlucoBright, and Tranexamic Acid is effective for brightening and reducing dark spots. DMAE and Wrinkle-Fill are beneficial for addressing wrinkles and improving skin firmness. Panthenol and Beta Glucan provide soothing and moisturizing benefits, which is helpful when using multiple active ingredients.

Expected Results: The formula has a good combination of ingredients and concentrations that are expected to help reduce the appearance of melasma, freckles, and wrinkles.

Usage: This serum is suitable for both morning and night use. Remember to always apply sunscreen during the day, especially when using products with brightening ingredients.

Texture: With Beta Glucan at 5%, DMAE at 3%, Polyethylene Glycol 1500 at 3%, and Pro Polymer at 1.1%, the serum might have a slightly sticky or heavy feel. The final texture will depend on the specific grades of ingredients and the mixing process.

Storage during De-aeration: Leaving the mixture at room temperature for 3-5 days to reduce foam is acceptable with Mild Preserved Eco at 1% for preservation during this short period. For long-term storage after de-aeration, it is best to store the serum in a cool place or refrigerator, especially for ingredients like Tranexamic Acid, to maintain their stability and efficacy.

Mixing Instructions Feedback: The order of mixing can be optimized. It's generally best to fully dissolve/disperse all water-soluble ingredients (Disodium EDTA, Safe-B3, GlucoBright, Tranexamic Acid, Panthenol, Beta Glucan, Wrinkle-Fill, Polyethylene Glycol 1500) in the water phase first, paying attention to temperature requirements (Beta Glucan below 50°C). Then, incorporate the gel maker (Pro Polymer) by sprinkling it slowly onto the surface and allowing it to hydrate fully before blending gently to avoid incorporating too much air. Finally, add sensitive ingredients like DMAE (below 40°C) and the preservative (Mild Preserved Eco) in the final step after the gel has formed.

Eye Cream for Dark Circles and Wrinkles (Age 30-40)

This formula includes ingredients known to target dark circles and wrinkles around the eyes. Safe B3 and GlucoBright contribute to brightening and reducing fine lines. Coffee Extract is particularly effective for dark circles and puffiness due to its ability to stimulate microcirculation. Rosehip oil provides essential fatty acids for skin repair and moisturization, which is beneficial for the delicate eye area. Satin Cream Maker is a suitable heat-free emulsifier for this formula with 10% oil content, and it is resistant to electrolytes like Coffee Extract. Mild Preserved Eco provides necessary preservation.

Mixing Compatibility: Yes, the ingredients in this eye cream formula are compatible and can be mixed together to form a cream using Satin Cream Maker as the emulsifier. Follow the recommended mixing procedure for Satin Cream Maker, which typically involves dispersing it in the water phase before gradually adding the oil phase while mixing.

Overall, both formulas are well-designed with appropriate active ingredients for their intended uses. Adjusting the mixing procedures slightly based on ingredient properties can help ensure optimal texture and stability.