Review of Hand Cream Formula for Very Dry Skin and Waterproofing

Question

I would like to request a review of my hand cream formula before ordering the ingredients. I aim to create a hand cream that provides intense hydration and is waterproof, specifically for very dry, rough hands that need rapid recovery.

Here is the proposed formula:

Natto Gum 5%
Natural Urea 5%
WaterLock 2%
Polyester Film 5%
Ceramide 2 %
Macadamia Nut Oil 2%
shea butter 10%
Light Cream Maker 1 %

I have a few additional questions:

When including Urea, is it necessary to also add Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate?
Between Cocoa Butter and shea butter, which one feels less sticky?

Also, do you have any other ingredient recommendations for a cream with these desired properties?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Review

Your formula includes several excellent ingredients for intense hydration and creating a protective barrier:

Natto Gum: This ingredient is known for providing deep moisture, even more effectively than Hyaluronic Acid according to its description. At 5%, it will contribute significantly to the cream's hydrating properties.
Urea: At 5%, Urea acts as a powerful moisturizer and can also help gently exfoliate dry, rough skin, which is beneficial for very dry hands.
WaterLock (Polyquaternium-51): This forms a film on the skin surface, similar to skin's natural phospholipids, helping to prevent water loss (TEWL) and providing a smooth feel.
Polyester Film (Make Up Fixer): This is a water-soluble film-former specifically designed for waterproofing, which directly addresses your goal of a water-resistant hand cream.
Ceramide 2 (Ceracare™ Oil): Ceramides are crucial for repairing the skin's natural barrier, reducing water loss, and soothing sensitive skin. Including this will help restore the health of very dry hands.
Macadamia Nut Oil: This oil is easily absorbed and rich in fatty acids similar to skin's natural sebum, providing good moisturization without feeling overly greasy.
Shea Butter: At 10%, Shea Butter is a rich emollient that provides intense moisture, helps restore damaged skin, and improves elasticity.
Light Cream Maker: This emulsifier is easy to use and creates a light, smooth cream texture. It can tolerate some electrolytes, but you may need to adjust the percentage based on other ingredients.

Overall, this combination of humectants, emollients, barrier repair agents, and film-formers is well-designed for a highly effective hand cream for very dry skin with water resistance.

Your Questions

Is it necessary to add Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate when using Urea?
While not strictly necessary, it is highly recommended to use Urea in conjunction with Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate for maximum moisturizing efficiency. These three ingredients are key components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which is essential for maintaining skin hydration and barrier function. Combining them helps to replenish the skin's natural moisturizing elements, leading to enhanced and more comprehensive hydration, which aligns with your goal of intense moisturization for very dry hands.

Keep in mind that Sodium PCA and Sodium Lactate are electrolytes. As noted in the description for Light Cream Maker, electrolytes can reduce the viscosity of the cream. You may need to use a slightly higher percentage of Light Cream Maker (e.g., 1.5-2%) and follow the recommended mixing method for formulas containing electrolytes to achieve your desired cream consistency.
Between Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter, which is less sticky?
Comparing the feel between Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter can be subjective and depends on the specific type and percentage used in a formula. Generally, both are rich butters that provide significant moisturization. Shea Butter, especially at a higher percentage like the 10% in your formula, will contribute a rich, emollient feel. The Light Cream Maker description mentions that the cream produced is light and smooth with "no gooey" feel, but this refers to the emulsifier's contribution to the base texture, not necessarily the feel imparted by high levels of butters.

The product linked as "Cocoa Butter" is actually a Cocoa Butter Replacer (Quick-Melt). This ingredient is engineered from vegetable oils/waxes to mimic natural cocoa butter. While it provides moisturizing benefits and is absorbed quickly, its exact feel compared to natural Shea Butter can vary.

In general, Shea Butter can sometimes feel slightly heavier or waxier than Cocoa Butter, but the "stickiness" perception is highly dependent on the overall formula, including the other oils, emollients, and the emulsifier system. At 10%, Shea Butter will provide a substantial, protective feel, which is often desirable for very dry hands needing intensive repair.

Additional Recommendations

Preservation: Your formula contains a significant water phase and natural ingredients like Natto Gum and Urea, which require preservation. While Natto Gum contains Phenoxyethanol (0.7%), you should ensure your overall formula has adequate broad-spectrum preservation to prevent microbial growth and maintain product safety and shelf life.
pH Adjustment/Stabilization: Urea can cause the pH of a formula to rise over time, especially in warmer conditions. The description for Urea recommends using Gluconolactone (approx. 15% of Urea amount) or Triacetin (approx. 1:10 ratio with Urea) to help stabilize the Urea and control the pH, ideally in the range of 4-5.5 for optimal stability and skin compatibility. You should check and adjust the final pH of your cream.

Your formula is a strong starting point for a deeply moisturizing and water-resistant hand cream. By considering the interaction of electrolytes with your emulsifier and ensuring proper preservation and pH stability, you can create an effective product for severely dry hands.