Review of Moisturizing Formula with Natto Gum for BHA Users

Asked by: saensaeb1989 On: April 24, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have developed a moisturizing and soothing formula using Natto Gum and other ingredients. I use BHA regularly and want to ensure this formula is suitable and effective, particularly regarding the choice of Natto Gum over Hyaluronic Acid. Please review the formula:

Phase A:

  • Water (Aqua) - 67%
  • Natto Gum - 5%
  • Beta Glucan - 10%
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) - 5%
  • Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) - 2%
  • N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) - 4%
  • Rice Vitamin - 0.5%

Phase B:

  • Squalane - 5%
  • Bisabolol (German Chamomile Extract) - 1%
  • Light Cream Maker™ - 1.5%

Phase C:

  • Phenoxyethanol - 0.5%

Is this formula suitable for use alongside regular BHA application? How does Natto Gum compare to Hyaluronic Acid in this context, and is 5% Natto Gum sufficient?

Answer

Formulation Advice: Natto Gum and Your Moisturizing Formula

Thank you for your question and for sharing your formula. It's understandable to consider using Natto Gum as a primary humectant, especially given its reported high moisturizing efficacy compared to Hyaluronic acid and its natural origin.

Based on the information available and your formula, here's an assessment:

Natto Gum vs. Hyaluronic Acid

As the staff reply indicated, both Natto Gum and Hyaluronic acid are excellent humectants that work by attracting and holding moisture in the skin. Natto Gum, derived from fermented soybeans, contains Polyglutamic Acid, which functions similarly to Hyaluronic acid. While some studies (often from manufacturers) suggest Natto Gum may offer superior hydration, both are highly effective. Choosing Natto Gum is a valid approach, particularly if you prefer naturally derived ingredients. Your formula uses Natto Gum at 5%, which is within the recommended usage rate (3-10%) and should provide significant moisturization.

Analysis of Your Formula

Your formula is well-designed to focus on moisturization and reducing irritation, incorporating several key ingredients known for these benefits:

  • Humectants: Natto Gum (5%), Beta Glucan (10%), Panthenol (Vitamin B5) (5%), and N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) (4%) are all potent humectants that will work together to draw moisture into the skin.
  • Emollient: Squalane (5%) helps to soften the skin and prevent moisture loss by supporting the skin's barrier.
  • Soothing & Barrier Support: Beta Glucan (10%), Panthenol (Vitamin B5) (5%), Bisabolol (German Chamomile Extract) (1%), and Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) (2%) are excellent for calming the skin, reducing redness, inflammation, and strengthening the skin barrier. Beta Glucan is particularly noted for its ability to activate the skin's immune system and reduce allergic reactions.
  • Other Beneficial Ingredients: Niacinamide also offers benefits like improving skin tone and reducing oiliness. N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine works synergistically with Niacinamide for potential brightening effects and stimulates the skin's own Hyaluronic acid production. Rice Vitamin is a broad term, but ingredients derived from rice often have soothing or antioxidant properties.
  • Structure & Preservation: Light Cream Maker™ (1.5%) acts as your emulsifier and thickener, while Phenoxyethanol (0.5%) provides necessary preservation.

Overall, the concentrations of moisturizing and soothing ingredients in your formula are quite high, which is beneficial for addressing dryness and irritation.

Compatibility with BHA Use

Given that you use BHA regularly, incorporating ingredients that counteract potential dryness and irritation is crucial. Your formula excels in this regard:

  • The high levels of humectants (Natto Gum, Beta Glucan, Panthenol, N-Acetyl Glucosamine) ensure the skin remains well-hydrated, mitigating dryness often associated with exfoliants like BHA.
  • The significant presence of soothing and barrier-supporting ingredients (Beta Glucan, Panthenol, Bisabolol, Niacinamide) helps to calm any potential irritation or redness caused by BHA and strengthens the skin's natural defenses.

Therefore, your current formula is already well-equipped to support skin health and minimize potential side effects when using BHA. Based on the ingredients and their concentrations, you do not need to specifically adjust this formula further to accommodate your regular BHA use. The existing composition provides robust hydration and anti-irritation benefits.

Conclusion

Using Natto Gum at 5% as a primary humectant is a suitable choice for your goal of high moisturization. Your overall formula is rich in ingredients that provide excellent hydration, soothe the skin, and strengthen the skin barrier. This makes it a highly appropriate companion product for regular BHA users, effectively addressing potential dryness and irritation without needing further modification.