Review of Serum/Gel Formulations for Manufacturing (Pump Bottle)

Thank you for providing your two formulations for review. I have examined the ingredients and can provide feedback regarding their compatibility, suitability for a liquid gel texture in a pump bottle, and the pH adjustment process during manufacturing.

Here is a review of each formula:

Formula 1 (Day) Review

This formula contains a comprehensive blend of active ingredients targeting whitening, anti-aging, and skin barrier support.

• Active Ingredients: Includes Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate), Bakuchiol, Melatonin, DMAE, several peptides (Pep®-Coll, Hexapeptide-9, Tetrapeptide-21, Quick-Coll®), Wrinkle-Fill™, Wrinkle-Lax™, Allantoin, and L-Carnitine. These ingredients offer benefits such as collagen stimulation, wrinkle reduction, antioxidant protection, and skin soothing.
• Texture and Feel: The formula uses Pro Polymer™ as a gel maker at 1.00%. This concentration, combined with solvents/penetration enhancers like Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI), Phospholipid, and 1,2-Hexanediol, and the emollient LipidSoft™ Dry II, should result in a liquid gel texture. This consistency is generally suitable for dispensing from a pump bottle.
• Compatibility and Stability:
  • Perfect-C™ requires a formula pH between 5.0-5.5 for optimal stability and should not be used with Vitamin B3 (which is not present in this formula, so that's fine).
  • Bakuchiol is best formulated at a pH between 3.5-6.5 and benefits from a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA (included) and a penetration enhancer like DMI (included).
  • Melatonin is stable at pH 4-10.
  • DMAE should be added in the final step below 40°C.
  • Most peptides are sensitive to heat and should be added in the final, cool-down phase.
  • Wrinkle-Fill™ is acidic, which will influence the final pH.
  • Allantoin is stable at pH 3-8.
  • L-Carnitine is stable at pH 3.5-8.
  • The presence of ActiveProtec™ UV is beneficial for protecting light-sensitive ingredients and the overall formula stability, especially if packaged in a clear bottle.
  • Disodium EDTA helps chelate metal ions, improving the stability of several ingredients.
  • Odor-Kill™ can help mask potential odors from ingredients like DMI.

Formula 2 (Night) Review

This formula focuses on skin repair, hydration, barrier function, and anti-aging for nighttime use.

• Active Ingredients: Features Repair Activator™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate), 4D Hyaluronic Acid, Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3/Niacinamide), GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine), Ceramide Complex, Cholesterol, LipidSoft™ F (Ethyl Linoleate), Ectoine, Squalane, and Palmitamide MEA. These ingredients work together to hydrate, strengthen the skin barrier, reduce hyperpigmentation, and provide antioxidant and anti-pollution benefits.
• Texture and Feel: This formula uses Pro Polymer™ at a slightly lower concentration (0.80%) compared to the day formula. This, along with the combination of 4D Hyaluronic Acid (a viscous gel), various emollients (LipidSoft™ F, Squalane, LipidSoft™ Solve, LipidSoft™ Lite), and solvents/penetration enhancers (Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI), Phospholipid, 1,2-Hexanediol), should result in a liquid gel texture suitable for a pump bottle. The lower Pro Polymer™ concentration may contribute to a slightly less viscous feel, which aligns with the goal of a liquid gel.
• Compatibility and Stability:
  • Repair Activator™ requires a formula pH between 4-5.5 and should be added in the final step, avoiding heat.
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) is best at pH 4.0-7.0.
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine) is stable at pH 3-7.
  • Ceramide Complex (Water Dispersible Powder) should be dispersed in water first and is best used with Cholesterol. Cholesterol requires high heat (150°C) to dissolve in the oil phase during manufacturing, which needs careful handling to avoid damaging other ingredients.
  • LipidSoft™ F and Palmitamide MEA can withstand heat up to 80°C for a limited time.
  • Ectoine is stable across a wide pH range (1-9) and high temperatures (up to 80°C).
  • Squalane should avoid heat.
  • Similar to the day formula, ActiveProtec™ UV, Disodium EDTA, and Odor-Kill™ contribute to stability and masking odors.

pH Adjustment During Production

Yes, pH adjustment is a standard and necessary step in cosmetic manufacturing. It ensures the stability and efficacy of pH-sensitive ingredients and optimizes the product for skin compatibility. During production, the pH of the final mixture will be measured and adjusted to the optimal range for the ingredients in each formula. For the day formula, a target pH around 5.0-5.5 would be suitable. For the night formula, a target pH around 4-5.5 would be appropriate. This ensures the ingredients remain stable and effective and that the product is suitable for skin application.

Conclusion

Both formulations appear well-designed with a good selection of active ingredients. The chosen gelling agent (Pro Polymer™) at the specified concentrations, combined with the other ingredients, should allow for the desired liquid gel texture suitable for pump bottles.

The manufacturing process will need to carefully consider the mixing instructions and temperature sensitivities of certain ingredients, particularly Cholesterol in the night formula and the peptides/heat-sensitive actives in both. pH adjustment will be a critical step to ensure the stability and performance of the active ingredients in each formula.