Review of Your Silicone Cream Formulation Process

Thank you for sharing your formulation and process! It's great that you're experimenting with a silicone-based cream using Warp Cream Maker. Based on your steps and the feedback from the staff, here's a review and some suggestions for optimizing your process:

Ingredient List Review

Your ingredient list seems reasonable for a silicone-in-water or water-in-silicone emulsion, aiming for brightening, hydration, and anti-aging benefits. The percentages add up to 100%, which is correct. Preservatives must be included in your total formula percentage to ensure stability and safety.

• Nanowhite (5%): Assuming this is a water-soluble active, it should be added to the water phase. However, many active ingredients are heat-sensitive.
• Hyaluronic Acid (0.1%): This is a good concentration for hydration. As noted in the product description and by the staff, dissolving Hyaluronic Acid powder requires time and often refrigeration to fully hydrate and form a gel. It goes in the water phase.
• Azelaic Acid (10%): The liquid form (like Liquid Azelaic™) is water-soluble. However, it and many other actives (like Copper Peptide and potentially Nanowhite) are heat-sensitive and should be added after the emulsion has formed and cooled.
• Copper Peptide (3%): If using a solution, 3% is within the recommended range. Copper Peptide is heat-sensitive and should be added after the emulsion has formed and cooled.
• Silicone Gel Base (5%) & Cyclomethicone (20%): These form the silicone phase. Cyclomethicone (like Cyclopentasiloxane) is a common base for silicone gels and emulsions.
• Water (51.9%): The main component of the water phase.
• Warp Cream Maker (5%): This is a water-in-silicone emulsifier. It helps combine the water and silicone phases.

Suggested Formulation Process Steps

Based on the nature of the ingredients and the staff's advice, here is a refined process:

1. Prepare the Water Phase: Combine Water and Hyaluronic Acid. Mix thoroughly and refrigerate for several hours (or overnight) until the Hyaluronic Acid is fully dissolved and a uniform gel is formed. Ensure it is completely dissolved before proceeding.
2. Prepare the Silicone Phase: Combine Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel Base, and Warp Cream Maker. Gently warm this mixture (as the staff suggested, do not boil) to help the Warp Cream Maker dissolve completely into the silicone phase. This may take 10-15 minutes with stirring.
3. Emulsification: This is a critical step for Warp Cream Maker. Both the water phase and the silicone phase should ideally be at a similar temperature, typically around 70-80°C, before combining (though the staff mentioned warming the silicone phase, traditional W/Si emulsification often uses heat for both phases). Using a high-speed blender (at least 1000 rpm) is essential. While blending the silicone phase, slowly and gradually add the water phase drop by drop or in a thin stream. Continue blending at high speed until the emulsion forms and is homogeneous.
4. Cooling: Continue blending while the emulsion cools down. This helps stabilize the cream texture.
5. Add Heat-Sensitive Actives and Preservative: Once the emulsion has cooled below 40°C, add your heat-sensitive ingredients: Azelaic Acid, Copper Peptide, Nanowhite (assuming it's heat-sensitive), and your preservative. Mix thoroughly until evenly dispersed.
6. Final Adjustments (Optional): Check the pH if necessary, especially considering the optimal pH range for Azelaic Acid (5-11) and Copper Peptide (4.5-7.4). Adjust if needed, though adding these at the end helps maintain their stability.
7. Storage: Continue blending until completely cool. Refrigerating overnight can help the texture set further, as the staff mentioned, but the cream is technically complete once the emulsion is stable and ingredients are added.

Regarding Preservatives

Yes, preservatives must be included in your formula and calculated as part of the total 100%. They are essential to prevent microbial growth, especially in formulas containing water and ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid, which can easily support bacterial growth if not preserved. Add the recommended usage rate for your chosen preservative in the final cooling phase (Step 5).

Your initial steps were a good starting point, and incorporating the staff's feedback along with the proper emulsification technique for Warp Cream Maker and adding heat-sensitive actives at the correct stage will help you create a more stable and effective product.