Revised Body Lotion Formula for Very Dry and Sensitive Skin

Based on your original formula and the feedback received, here is a revised formula designed to provide increased moisture for very dry skin while being mindful of sensitivity and texture.

Analysis of the Original Formula and Feedback

Your original formula includes excellent ingredients for dry and sensitive skin such as Shea Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Vitamin B5, WaterLock, Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, and Telmesteine. These ingredients help to moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin barrier.

The feedback you received is also very helpful. Increasing the emollient phase (like Shea Butter) is a good approach for very dry skin. The note about Vitamin E potentially causing stickiness at 1% is valid, as is the observation about Vitamin B12's color.

One key observation is the total percentage of WaterLock (Polyquaternium-51) in your original formula is 5% (3% + 2%). While WaterLock is great for preventing water loss, its recommended usage rate is typically 1-2% (up to 2% for dry skin). Using it at 5% is likely the primary contributor to any sticky or "gooey" feeling, even more so than Vitamin E at 1%.

Adding MOIST24, as suggested in the feedback, is also a good idea. It's a humectant that helps retain moisture and can improve the texture and feel of the cream, making it less sticky and more easily absorbed.

Proposed Revised Formula

Here is a suggested revised formula incorporating these points:

• Water: 65%
• Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 10%
• Sweet Almond Oil: 5%
• Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): 3%
• Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin): 3% (Note: This ingredient may give the cream a red color. If you prefer no color, you can reduce or omit this ingredient.)
• WaterLock (Polyquaternium-51): 2%
• Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid: 3%
• Telmesteine: 2%
• Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 0.5%
• MOIST24: 5%
• Light Cream Maker: 1.5%

Total: 100%

Reasoning for Changes

• Shea Butter: Increased from 5% to 10% to provide significantly more emollience and richness for very dry skin, as suggested.
• WaterLock (Polyquaternium-51): Reduced from 5% to 2% to stay within the recommended usage rate for dry skin and significantly reduce the potential for stickiness.
• Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): Reduced from 1% to 0.5% to minimize potential stickiness, aligning with the feedback and product information.
• MOIST24: Added at 5% to boost hydration, improve texture, and enhance the skin feel, making the cream more pleasant to use.
• Light Cream Maker: Increased slightly from 1% to 1.5%. With the increased oil phase (15% total oils/butters), a slightly higher percentage of emulsifier can help ensure stable emulsification and achieve a desirable cream consistency.
• Water: Adjusted to balance the total percentage to 100%.
• Vitamin B5, Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Telmesteine: Kept at their original percentages as they are effective for moisturizing, soothing, and reducing irritation, and are within their recommended usage rates.
• Vitamin B12: Kept at 3% as in your original formula, but included a note about the potential for red color, as mentioned in the feedback.

Mixing Instructions

Since the revised formula contains a higher percentage of Shea Butter which requires melting, you will need to use a hot process method for the oil phase.

1. Water Phase: Combine Water, Vitamin B5, Vitamin B12, WaterLock, Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Telmesteine, and MOIST24 in a container. Stir until all water-soluble ingredients are fully dissolved.
2. Oil Phase: In a separate container, combine Shea Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Vitamin E, and Light Cream Maker. Gently heat this phase to 60-70°C to melt the Shea Butter and ensure all oil-soluble ingredients are dispersed. Stir well.
3. Emulsification: Slowly pour the heated oil phase into the water phase while stirring continuously. Use a stick blender or mixer at a moderate speed (avoiding speeds above 2500 rpm to protect the polymer in Light Cream Maker) to emulsify the mixture. Continue mixing until a smooth, uniform cream is formed and has cooled down.

This revised formula should provide enhanced moisturization for your very dry skin while addressing the potential for stickiness and incorporating beneficial ingredients for sensitivity.