Revised Matte Liquid Lipstick Formula and Mixing Instructions
Asked by: kokkwuang
On: February 22, 2016
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Answered
Question
I am trying to create a matte liquid lipstick but am facing issues with oil separation, a non-matte/oily finish, and unclear color payoff. My current formula includes Hectorite Oil Gel, a light Mineral Oil, Silk Sericite Powder (matte type), and EASYMIX™ COLOR. Could you provide a revised formula and mixing instructions to achieve a stable, matte texture with good color dispersion, perhaps replacing the Mineral Oil?
Answer
Revised Matte Lip Formula
This formula replaces the Mineral Oil with Isododecane and includes a combination of gelling agents, waxes, silicones, and powders to achieve a stable, matte texture with good color dispersion.
Base Phase
- Isododecane: 39% - This is a lightweight, volatile hydrocarbon that evaporates quickly, leaving a non-oily, matte finish. It replaces the heavier Mineral Oil from your original formula.
- Hectorite Oil Gel (Isododecane Base): 7.50% - This is a gelling agent specifically designed for non-polar oils like Isododecane. It helps thicken the base and, crucially, keeps pigments suspended evenly, preventing separation.
- Natural White Beeswax: 7.50% - A natural wax that provides structure and body to the formula, contributing to the matte finish and stability.
- SiliSolve Plus: 0.50% - An emulsifier that helps bind the different oil and silicone components together, improving formula stability.
- Silicone Blender: 4% - Helps blend different silicone types and increases the stability of silicone-containing formulas.
- Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky): 13% - A silicone elastomer gel that enhances the texture, providing a smooth, silky feel and contributing to the matte appearance by blurring light.
Foundation Phase (Powders & Color)
- Silk Talc Powder: 7.50% - A treated talc powder that adds softness, improves spreadability, absorbs oil, and enhances the matte finish.
- MatteSilica 5™: 2% - A porous silica powder specifically designed to absorb oil and provide a strong matte effect. It also improves the glide of the product.
- FD&C Red No.40 Lake EasyMix™: 4% - A pre-dispersed pigment that is easy to mix into oil and silicone bases, ensuring vibrant and even color payoff. The staff recommends using pigments from the Lake EasyMix™ group for best results.
- Silk Mica Powder: 15% - A treated mica powder that adds softness, improves texture, and helps with coverage and adhesion.
Mixing Instructions:
- Combine all ingredients from the Base Phase and heat to 80°C. Stir or blend until everything is uniformly dissolved.
- While the base is still hot, gradually add each powder from the Foundation Phase, blending thoroughly after each addition to ensure smooth dispersion.
- Turn off the heat and continue stirring or blending at a low speed while the mixture cools down. This helps the texture set evenly.
Tips for Adjustment:
- Color: You can adjust the color by using different pigments from the Lake EasyMix™ group. To lighten or brighten the color, add White Oxides EasyMix™.
- Thickness: To increase the thickness, you can slightly increase the percentages of Hectorite Oil Gel (Isododecane Base) and Natural White Beeswax. Conversely, decrease them to make the texture thinner.
- Gloss: If you wanted a slightly less matte finish (more glossy), you could add Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss) by reducing the percentage of Isododecane. However, since your goal is a matte finish, this adjustment is not recommended for your specific problem.