Revising Anti-Wrinkle Formula: Addressing Compatibility and Adding Actives
Question
I have an anti-wrinkle formula for dry skin that I use with a separate moisturizer. The formula contains:
Cyclomethicone20%Pro Polymer0.8g- Repair Activator
- Pep Coll
- Argireline
- Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract
- NAT RIBOSE
- Snow Algae
- Wrinkle Lax
- Wakame Extract
- DMAE
- Wrinkle-Fill
- Panthenol
- Soy Extract
- French Pine Bark Extract
- BaicaVital
The staff advised removing Cyclomethicone due to incompatibility with Pro Polymer in a low-water base, suggesting increasing water to 34.2% and noting the high concentration causes stickiness.
I am interested in adding new ingredients to enhance the formula. Could you suggest effective ingredients from your catalog and provide guidance on revising the formula?
Answer
Revised Anti-Wrinkle Formula Suggestions
Thank you for sharing your anti-wrinkle formula and the valuable feedback from the MySkinRecipes staff. The staff's advice regarding the incompatibility of Cyclomethicone with Pro Polymer in a low water base is crucial for the stability and texture of your formula. Removing Cyclomethicone and increasing the water content is the correct first step in revising your formula.
Your original formula already contains a strong base of effective anti-aging ingredients, including various peptides and beneficial plant extracts. To help you enhance your formula further and address your interest in new products, I've identified several highly effective ingredients from the MySkinRecipes catalog that you could consider incorporating.
Based on product information and their known benefits for addressing wrinkles and improving skin condition, here are some recommended additions:
- Pep®-Replex (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9): This peptide blend is clinically proven to significantly boost skin firmness and elasticity, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and deep lines by improving skin structure.
- Pep®-Synthe6 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38): A potent peptide that targets wrinkles by stimulating key components of the skin's matrix.
- Tetrapeptide-21: Known for stimulating the synthesis of the skin's Extracellular Matrix (ECM) and reducing its degradation, offering significant wrinkle reduction.
- Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (eq. SNAP-8): Similar to Argireline, this peptide reduces muscle contractions to smooth expression lines and is considered more effective.
- HRC-4000™ (Human Type III Recombinant Collagen): A recombinant human collagen that dramatically increases collagen synthesis, improves elasticity, and reduces wrinkle size and depth. It also enhances the skin barrier and texture.
- SerpinBlock™ (Piperidinepropionic acid): Targets serpin b3, a protein that accelerates skin aging, helping to mitigate damage and promote smoother, firmer skin.
- RareGinseng®-Rg2: An extract that inhibits enzymes breaking down collagen, preserving collagen integrity and preventing photoaging.
- Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF, Recombinant): A growth factor that strengthens the skin barrier and helps restore skin damaged by photo-aging.
- FlashTenser™ or Lift-Now™: For immediate, temporary skin tightening and wrinkle smoothing, these offer quick visible results. FlashTenser™ provides strong tightening, while Lift-Now™ is better if applying makeup afterward.
- Ceramide Complex: As you have dry skin and use a separate moisturizer, adding Ceramide Complex can restore the skin's natural moisture barrier, reduce dryness, and improve overall skin health, which is vital for aging skin.
Steps for Revising Your Formula:
- Remove Cyclomethicone: Eliminate Cyclomethicone from your formula as advised.
- Increase Water: Significantly increase the water content to replace the Cyclomethicone and ensure proper compatibility with Pro Polymer and water-soluble actives. The staff suggested increasing water to 34.2% as a starting point, but you may need to adjust based on the final total weight and desired gel consistency after adding new ingredients.
- Keep Effective Original Ingredients: Retain beneficial ingredients from your original formula such as Repair Activator, Pep Coll, Argireline (or consider replacing with Acetyl Octapeptide-3), Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract, NAT RIBOSE, Snow Algae, Wrinkle Lax, Wakame Extract, DMAE, Wrinkle-Fill, Panthenol, Soy Extract, French Pine Bark Extract, and BaicaVital.
- Incorporate New Ingredients: Select a few recommended new ingredients based on your specific anti-aging goals and add them to the water phase according to their recommended usage rates. Be mindful of the total percentage of active ingredients to avoid excessive stickiness that could hinder absorption.
- Adjust Pro Polymer: Your current amount of Pro Polymer (0.8g) should likely be suitable for gelling the increased water phase, but minor adjustments might be needed depending on the final water percentage and desired texture.
- Mixing: Follow the mixing instructions for each ingredient. Add heat-sensitive ingredients like peptides and extracts in the final cooling phase (below 40°C). Note that Kinetin requires a pH above 7 to dissolve.
By addressing the compatibility issue and incorporating some of these advanced ingredients, you can create a more stable and potentially more potent anti-wrinkle serum or gel tailored to your dry skin type.
Related Products Mentioned
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
REGU®-AGE (CB)
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Lift-Now™
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
Reshape Gel™ (Gel Maker, Memory-Gel)
Soft Cream Maker™
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
FruitPeel™ exfoliates cells with fruit
Mineral Ready™ (Mn+Zn+Cu)
Light Lotion Maker
L-Proline
Tetrapeptide-21
Hydrolyzed Pea Protein (High-Peptide)
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Microneedle Sponge (Sponge Extract)
Polyethylene Glycol 800 (PEG-16, PEG800)
FlashTenser™ (Quick Skin Tenser)
Collagen HP
Hydrolyzed Elastin (From Fish)
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (eq. SNAP-8)
Pep®-Radiance (Nonapeptide-1)
YogurtFirm™ (Yogurt Extract)
Pep®-Eye (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5)
Pep-Even™ (Tetrapeptide-30)
AHC-Pep™ (Acetyl Tripeptide-1)
Pep®-Leupha (Pentapeptide-18)
Pep®-Elastyl (Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12)
Pep®-Mican (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9)
Hair Setting Powder
Stop-Foam™ (Anti-Foaming Powder)
FoundationFix™ (Wrinkle Remover)
FucoCell™ (L-Fucose from Marine Seaweed)
Chitox-3000 (Chitosan Oligosaccharide)
CreamCap™ Tone-Up Beads (1mm, Wet)
Pep®-Bright (Hexapeptide-2)
Pep®-Adif (Acetyl hexapeptide-38)
Egg Shell Membrane Collagen
Pep®-H11 (Hexapeptide-11 1000ppm)
Pep®-IDP2 (Decapeptide-4 1000ppm)
Kinetin
CreamMaker EG™ (e.q. Simulgel EG)
RareGinseng®-Rg2
SerpinBlock™ (Piperidinepropionic acid)
Hair-Cond™ Silk PMF