Sample Biphasic Eye and Lip Makeup Remover Formula

A biphasic makeup remover consists of two layers: an oil phase to dissolve waterproof makeup and a water phase to cleanse and refresh the skin. Shaking before use mixes the layers temporarily.

Here is a sample formula structure and method, incorporating Poloxamer 184 as suggested:

Formula Structure

• Phase A (Oil Phase): ~40-60%
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: 30-50% (This is a light, non-greasy emollient ester that helps dissolve makeup and moisturize the skin. It mixes in oil and can be used at 1-20% in the final formula, but for the oil phase itself, you'll use a higher percentage of the phase.)
  • Optional: Other light oils or emollients

• Phase B (Water Phase): ~40-60%

  • Water (Distilled or Deionized): Up to 100% of Phase B
  • Poloxamer 184: 1-5% (This is a high-HLB emulsifier commonly used in cleansing water and eye makeup remover formulas. It mixes in water and can be used at 0.1-10.0% in the final formula.)
  • Humectant (e.g., Glycerin, Propanediol): 2-5%
  • Preservative: 0.5-1.5% (Choose a broad-spectrum preservative suitable for both phases)
  • Optional: Soothing agents (e.g., Panthenol), Chelating agent (e.g., Disodium EDTA), pH Adjuster

• Note: The ratio of Phase A to Phase B can be adjusted. A 50:50 ratio is common.*

Method

1. Prepare Phase B (Water Phase): In a clean container, weigh out the water. Add Poloxamer 184, humectant, preservative, and any other water-soluble ingredients. Stir gently until dissolved. If needed, adjust the pH of the water phase to be skin-compatible (typically 5.5-7.0).
2. Prepare Phase A (Oil Phase): In a separate clean container, weigh out the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride and any other oil-soluble ingredients. Stir gently to combine.
3. Combine Phases: Gently pour the oil phase (Phase A) into the water phase (Phase B). Avoid vigorous mixing if you want clear layer separation.
4. Package: Carefully pour the mixture into your final bottle.
5. Allow to Separate: Let the bottle sit undisturbed until the two distinct layers form.

How to Use

Shake the bottle well before each use to mix the oil and water phases. Apply to a cotton pad and gently wipe over eyes and lips to remove makeup.

Important Considerations

• Preservation: A suitable broad-spectrum preservative is essential for the water phase.
• pH: Adjusting the pH of the water phase can improve stability and skin compatibility.
• Ingredient Quality: Use cosmetic-grade ingredients.
• Testing: Always test the formula on a small skin area before full application.