Semi-Matte Liquid Lipstick Formulation: Preventing Hardening and Achieving Stability
Question
I need a formulation for a semi-matte liquid lipstick that is stable and does not harden, especially in cold temperatures. I have experienced issues with hardening in previous formulas. Based on the suggestion to use an emulsifier like Warp Cream Maker, could you provide a detailed sample formula using a water-in-silicone emulsion base, similar to the following structure, and explain the function of each ingredient and the mixing procedure?
Desired Formula Structure:
- Phase A (Silicone/Oil Phase):
- Silicone Film (Soft Film, Low Viscosity, Cyclopentasiloxane Base)
- Triethylhexyl Trimellitate
- LipidSoft™ Shine
- Warp Cream Maker
- Pigment Dispersion (for color)
- Mattifying Powder (e.g., Silica, Nylon-12)
- Phase B (Water Phase):
- Water
- Magnesium Sulfate
- Preservative
Please also advise on crucial factors like packaging to maintain the liquid texture and prevent hardening over time.
Answer
Semi-Matte Liquid Lipstick Formulation
Thank you for your question regarding your liquid lipstick formulation. It's common for some lip formulations to harden in cold temperatures, often due to the specific waxes or solid components used, or if volatile ingredients evaporate over time due to improper packaging.
Based on your previous experience and the staff's suggestion, using an emulsifier like Warp Cream Maker can help create a stable, creamy liquid texture that is less prone to hardening compared to purely anhydrous (oil-based) systems.
Here is a sample detailed formulation for a semi-matte liquid lipstick using a water-in-silicone emulsion base:
Sample Semi-Matte Liquid Lipstick Formula
Phase A (Silicone/Oil Phase)
- Silicone Film (Soft Film, Low Viscosity, Cyclopentasiloxane Base): 20%
- Triethylhexyl Trimellitate: 8%
- LipidSoft™ Shine: 2%
- Warp Cream Maker: 7%
- Pigment Dispersion (for color): 5-10% (adjust based on desired intensity)
- Mattifying Powder (e.g., Silica, Nylon-12): 3-5%
Phase B (Water Phase)
- Water: Balance to 100%
- Magnesium Sulfate: 1%
- Preservative: 1%
Ingredient Functions:
- Silicone Film (Cyclopentasiloxane Base): Acts as a film former for long wear and transfer resistance, and provides a volatile carrier that evaporates to leave a matte finish.
- Triethylhexyl Trimellitate & LipidSoft™ Shine: Emollients that provide comfort and prevent the film from feeling too dry or brittle.
- Warp Cream Maker: A water-in-oil emulsifier that helps create a stable emulsion between the silicone/oil phase and the water phase, contributing to the liquid texture.
- Pigment Dispersion: Provides the color.
- Mattifying Powder: Helps absorb oil and reduce shine for a semi-matte look.
- Magnesium Sulfate: Helps stabilize the water-in-oil emulsion.
- Preservative: Essential for formulas containing water to prevent microbial growth.
Mixing Instructions:
- Combine all ingredients in Phase A in a suitable container. Mix thoroughly using a high-shear mixer or homogenizer until all pigments and powders are evenly dispersed and the mixture is homogeneous.
- In a separate container, combine all ingredients in Phase B and mix until everything is dissolved.
- While continuously mixing Phase A with high shear, slowly add Phase B drop by drop or in a thin stream. Continue mixing until a smooth, uniform emulsion is formed.
- Pour the liquid lipstick into airtight containers immediately after mixing.
Important Note: As the staff mentioned, proper packaging is crucial. Ensure the liquid lipstick is stored in an airtight container to prevent the evaporation of volatile ingredients, which can lead to thickening or hardening over time, especially in cooler temperatures.
This formula provides a starting point. You may need to adjust the percentages of the film former, emollients, and mattifying powder to achieve your desired level of matte finish, wear time, and comfort.
Related Products Mentioned
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft)
LipidSoft™ Shine