Semi-Permanent Hair Color Shampoo

1. Which substance should be used to adjust pH for sensitive skin?
   To increase the pH of your semi-permanent hair color shampoo to around 9, as suggested by the SemiColor - Wood Black description to help open hair cuticles for better color uptake, you can use an alkaline substance. The SemiColor description specifically mentions using Triethanolamine to adjust the pH to approximately 9 in a sample shampoo formula. Triethanolamine is a common pH adjuster in cosmetic formulations.
   Other alkaline substances like Sodium Hydroxide or Calcium Hydroxide can also increase pH, as found in product searches. However, these are strong alkalis and must be used with extreme caution in very small amounts, measuring the pH precisely to avoid irritation, especially for sensitive skin. Using Triethanolamine, as suggested by the product information for SemiColor, would generally be preferred for ease of use and potentially milder effect compared to strong hydroxides, but always test on a small area first.

2. Effect of adjusting to pH 9 and how many uses to see results?
   Adjusting the pH of your shampoo to around 9 helps to slightly open the hair's cuticle layer. This allows the semi-permanent color molecules from SemiColor - Wood Black and ColorFix to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively, leading to better color deposition and reduced color transfer onto hands.
   Since semi-permanent hair colors applied via shampoo or conditioner gradually build up color, you will likely see more noticeable results over several uses, not just one. The exact number of uses needed will vary depending on your hair's porosity, its original color, and how frequently you use the product. The SemiColor description notes that the color gradually adheres more with repeated use and that conditioner formulas tend to give better and faster results than shampoo formulas.

Permanent Hair Dye Ingredients

3. How are resorcinol, p-Phenylenediamine, and m-Aminophenol used, and what are they used with?

   • p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) and m-Aminophenol (MAP) are key ingredients used in permanent hair dyeing systems. PPD is typically an "Oxidation Base" or "Primary" dye, and MAP is a "Coupler" or "Secondary" dye. They are used together in the hair colorant mixture.
   • These dyes require a Developer, which contains an oxidizing agent, most commonly Hydrogen Peroxide. The PPD and MAP molecules are small and can penetrate the hair shaft. Once inside the hair, the Hydrogen Peroxide from the developer oxidizes them, causing them to react and link together to form larger, colored molecules that are too big to wash out easily. This process creates the permanent color.
   • Activated Resorcinol (4-Butyl Resorcinol) is not the same as the Resorcinol sometimes used in traditional permanent hair dyes. The description for Activated Resorcinol states it is used for skin brightening and is not allowed by the FDA for skin care at high concentrations due to potential irritation, and it is not the Resorcinol used in hair dye. Therefore, Activated Resorcinol should not be used in hair color formulations.

4. What is the effect of these substances, and are they used for bleaching for permanent dyeing?

   • PPD and MAP themselves are color precursors; they don't bleach hair. Their effect is to create permanent color within the hair shaft when oxidized by a developer.
   • Bleaching (lightening the hair's natural pigment) is primarily done by the Hydrogen Peroxide in the Developer. In a permanent hair dyeing process, the developer simultaneously lightens the natural hair color and allows the PPD and MAP to react and deposit the new color. So, while permanent dyeing involves both lightening and coloring, the PPD and MAP are solely responsible for the color formation, not the bleaching.

Gentle Grey-Covering Conditioner Formula

5. Formula recommendation for a gentle grey-covering conditioner for sensitive skin.
   Creating a gentle grey-covering conditioner involves using semi-permanent dyes in a conditioning base. Based on the products you've used and their descriptions, here is a simple formula idea:

   • Water: up to 100%
   • Hair-Cond™ 0949: 5% (Provides conditioning properties)
   • ColorFix™: 5% (Helps the semi-permanent color adhere better and last longer in a conditioner base)
   • SemiColor - Wood Black: 0.5 - 1.0% (Provides the black color. Start with a lower percentage and increase in future batches if you need more intensity)
   • Suitable Preservative: 1% (Essential to prevent microbial growth)
   • Triethanolamine (or other mild pH adjuster): Adjust pH to approximately 9 (Use drop by drop and measure with a pH meter until the desired pH is reached. Be very careful not to exceed pH 9 as it can degrade the color).

   Instructions:

   1. Combine Water and Hair-Cond™ 0949. Mix well.
   2. Add the preservative and mix.
   3. In a separate container, dissolve SemiColor - Wood Black in a small amount of hot water (70-80°C) as per its description, then add it to the main mixture. Mix thoroughly until the color is evenly dispersed.
   4. Add ColorFix™ and mix well.
   5. Slowly add Triethanolamine (or chosen pH adjuster) drop by drop, mixing continuously, and measure the pH until it reaches approximately 9.
   6. Mix thoroughly one last time.

   This formula uses Hair-Cond™ 0949 as a conditioning agent, ColorFix to enhance color uptake and longevity, and SemiColor - Wood Black for the color. Adjusting the pH to around 9 will help the color deposit better. Always perform a patch test before using the final product, especially given your concern for sensitive skin.