Serum Formula Modification for Hydration, Anti-aging, and Texture
Question
I would like advice on modifying the following serum formula to make it more concentrated, suitable for all skin types (dry, oily, combination, sensitive), easily absorbed, deeply hydrating, and comfortable on the skin.
My current formula is:
- sterile water 84 %
- Disodium EDTA 2%
- Phenoxyethanol 1 %
Oil Phase:
- Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 10 %
- Vitamin E (Tocopherol Acetate) 1 %
- Sodium Polyacrylate 1%
- Polyisobutene 1 %
How should I adjust the formula and what ingredients should I add to achieve these properties?
Additionally, can the preservative (Phenoxyethanol) be replaced?
And if I want to add ingredients for pore tightening or wrinkle reduction, such as Yeast Extract, can this be done?
Thank you.
Answer
Serum Formula Modification Advice
Here is a suggested modification to your serum formula to make it more concentrated, suitable for all skin types, easily absorbed, and deeply hydrating, while also addressing pore appearance and wrinkles.
Revised Serum Formula
- Sterile water: 77.8%
- Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
- Mild Preserved Eco: 1.5%
- Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: 10%
- Vitamin E (Tocopherol Acetate): 1%
- Sodium Polyacrylate: 1%
- Polyisobutene: 1%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule): 0.3%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Super Low Molecule): 0.2%
- Sodium PCA 50%: 2%
- Pep®-Synthe6: 2%
- Yeast Resurface: 3%
- Total: 100%
Explanation of Changes and Added Ingredients:
- Increased Concentration & Hydration: The water percentage is reduced, and the concentration of beneficial ingredients is increased. We've added Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) and Hyaluronic Acid (Super Low Molecule) for multi-level hydration, helping to attract and retain moisture on the skin surface and deeper layers, suitable for both dry and oily skin without feeling heavy. Sodium PCA 50% is added to support the skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMF), enhancing hydration and barrier function.
- Improved Texture & Absorption: While keeping the original oil phase components and emulsifier, the overall balance with increased water-soluble humectants should contribute to a comfortable, easily absorbed texture.
- Pore Tightening & Wrinkle Reduction:
- Yeast Resurface (Yeast Extract) helps promote skin cell turnover, which can improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of pores, and minimize fine lines and wrinkles.
- Pep®-Synthe6 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38) is a peptide known for its wrinkle-reducing properties by stimulating collagen synthesis.
- Preservative Alternative: You asked about alternatives to Phenoxyethanol. We've included Mild Preserved Eco in this formula as a gentle, preservative-free option (according to FDA classification) that also offers some moisturizing benefits. Other alternatives include NaturePreserve Ultra, a natural powder preservative effective in a pH range of 3-6.
Important Mixing Instructions:
- Combine the water phase ingredients: Sterile water, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule), Hyaluronic Acid (Super Low Molecule), Sodium PCA 50%. Ensure Hyaluronic Acid powders are fully dissolved (may require shaking/refrigeration or high-speed blending as per product instructions).
- In a separate container, combine the oil phase ingredients: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Vitamin E (Tocopherol Acetate), Polyisobutene.
- Combine the water and oil phases and mix well.
- Add Sodium Polyacrylate and blend gently (avoid high speed, below 2500 rpm) until a uniform serum/cream texture is achieved.
- Once emulsified and cooled (temperature below 40°C), gently blend in Yeast Resurface and Pep®-Synthe6.
- Finally, add Mild Preserved Eco and blend gently to incorporate.
- Check and adjust the final pH of the serum to be within the range of 5.0-5.5 for optimal stability and efficacy of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Yeast Resurface.
Note on Niacinamide:
You mentioned adding ingredients like Yeast Extract and potentially others for pore tightening. While Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) is excellent for pore appearance, oil control, and overall skin health, it is not compatible with Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate in the same formula according to ingredient information. Therefore, Niacinamide was not included in this modified formula. If Niacinamide is a key ingredient you wish to use, you may need to consider a separate formula or an alternative Vitamin C derivative that is compatible.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Light Cream Maker™
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Sodium PCA 50%
Disodium EDTA
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Yeast Resurface