Serum Formula Review and Adjustment

Question

I have formulated a serum with the following ingredients: Repair Activator™, DMAE, Pep®-Coll, Niacinamide, Wrinkle-Fill™, Double Hyaluron, n-acetyl glucosamine, MOIST24, Panthenol, and Allantoin (at 0.5%). My goals are anti-aging (reducing wrinkles), brightening, tightening, achieving a non-greasy yet moisturizing feel, and ensuring it's suitable for all skin types. I have a few questions about this formula: What kind of texture will this formula have? Is a liquid texture expected or is a thicker serum consistency possible? Is 0.5% Allantoin soluble in this formula? Can this formula be registered with the FDA (อย.)? How will the feel of this formula be on the skin? Will it be non-greasy and moisturizing? Is this formula suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Serum Formula Review

Thank you for sharing your serum formula and goals (reducing wrinkles, brightening, tightening, non-greasy yet moisturizing feel, suitable for all skin types).

Based on the ingredients you've included, the formula contains several actives known for these benefits:

Anti-aging/Wrinkles: Repair Activator™, DMAE, Pep®-Coll, Niacinamide, Wrinkle-Fill™, Double Hyaluron.
Brightening: n-acetyl glucosamine, Niacinamide.
Tightening: DMAE, Pep®-Coll.
Hydration: MOIST24, Panthenol, Double Hyaluron, Allantoin.

Regarding your questions and the staff's reply:

Texture: As the staff mentioned, this formula will be a liquid as it lacks a thickening agent. Is a liquid texture what you prefer, or would you like a thicker serum consistency? If you prefer a serum, you would need to add a suitable gelling agent or thickener.
Allantoin Solubility: The staff correctly advised reducing Allantoin to 0.2% as 0.5% may not fully dissolve in this formula. Please adjust the concentration accordingly.
FDA (อย.) Registration: Yes, the formula can be registered with the FDA (อย.) in Thailand, provided you use a preservative that is approved for cosmetic use by the FDA. The staff's advice on this is correct.
Feel: The combination of water-soluble ingredients and humectants should result in a non-greasy feel. The humectants (MOIST24, Panthenol, Double Hyaluron) are included to provide hydration and a moisturized feel.
Suitability for all skin types: The ingredients are generally well-tolerated, but as with any new product, patch testing is recommended, especially for sensitive skin.

Summary of Adjustments:

Reduce Allantoin concentration from 0.5% to 0.2%.
Ensure the preservative used is FDA-approved.
(Optional) Add a thickener if a serum texture is desired.

Overall, the formula is well-designed to target your desired skin concerns. Remember to perform stability testing on the final product and adjust the pH if necessary for optimal performance and stability of the ingredients.

Hope this helps! Let us know if you have more questions or would like suggestions for a thickener.