Serum Formula Review for Sensitive, Very Dry Skin (Anti-aging & Moisturizing)

Asked by: ne_ws21 On: January 06, 2022 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a serum formula for anti-aging and moisturizing specifically for sensitive and very dry skin. The formula includes Marine Plankton 2.0%, Ectoine 2.0%, Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3.0%, Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide) 5.0%, 4D Hyaluronic Acid 10.0%, Super-HYA™ (Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, AcHA) 0.1%, Laurocapram (Water Soluble) 3.0%, Pro Polymer™ 0.8%, Mild Preserved Eco™ 1.0%, and Water 73.1%. Could you please review this formula and advise if any adjustments are needed?

Answer

Subject: Review of Anti-aging and Moisturizing Serum Formula for Sensitive, Dry Skin

Thank you for sharing your serum formula for anti-aging and moisturizing, targeting sensitive and very dry skin.

Your selection of ingredients is generally good for the intended purposes:

  • Marine Plankton, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): Excellent choices for anti-aging benefits.
  • Ectoine, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, 4D Hyaluronic Acid, Super-HYA™: Provide good moisturizing properties. Ectoine is also beneficial for sensitive skin.

However, there are a couple of points to consider, especially for very sensitive and dry skin:

  1. Laurocapram (Penetration Enhancer) at 3.0%: This concentration is quite high for a penetration enhancer and may potentially cause irritation or disrupt the skin barrier, particularly on sensitive skin. For this formula, where most ingredients are water-soluble, a high concentration of a penetration enhancer might not be necessary and could be counterproductive for sensitive skin.

    • Suggestion: Consider significantly reducing the concentration to 0.5-1.0% or removing it entirely.
  2. 4D Hyaluronic Acid at 10.0%: While Hyaluronic Acid is a great moisturizer, very high concentrations (like 10% of a blend) can sometimes feel sticky or even pull moisture from the skin in very dry environments, potentially exacerbating dryness for some individuals.

    • Suggestion: Reducing the concentration to a more typical range like 3.0-5.0% should still provide excellent hydration without these potential issues.
  3. For Very Dry and Sensitive Skin: Adding an ingredient known for soothing and supporting the skin barrier would be beneficial.

    • Suggestion: Consider adding Panthenol (Vitamin B5) at 1.0-2.0%. It's a great humectant and has soothing and barrier-repairing properties.

Here is a suggested revised formula incorporating these points:

  • Marine Plankton: 2.0%
  • Ectoine: 2.0%
  • Glycosaminoglycans Complex: 3.0%
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): 5.0% (Note: While generally well-tolerated, some very sensitive individuals might prefer starting at a lower concentration like 2-3%)
  • 4D Hyaluronic Acid: 3.0% (Reduced)
  • Super-HYA™: 0.1%
  • Laurocapram: 0.5% (Reduced significantly, or remove)
  • Panthenol: 2.0% (Added)
  • Pro Polymer™: 0.8%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™: 1.0%
  • Water: 80.6% (Adjusted)
  • Total: 100.0%

This revised formula aims to reduce potential irritation while enhancing moisturizing and soothing benefits for sensitive, very dry skin.

Important: Always perform a patch test with any new formulation before applying it to your entire face, especially given your sensitive skin type.