Serum Formulation Compatibility & Clarity for Acne/Whitening

Asked by: thida1711 On: July 28, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to inquire about the compatibility of my formula.

This formula is for acne reduction, skin whitening, and brightening, with an emphasis on natural ingredients and expected results.

Here is the formula:

  • Pro Polymer 0.5%
  • HyaCoat 0.1%
  • Licorice Extract 3%
  • Willow Bark Extract 10%
  • Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract (HybridCell™) 2%
  • Lemon Peel Bioferment (Lemon Skin™) 3%
  • EDTA 0.2%
  • Mild Preserve Eco 1%
  • Water q.s. to 100%

My questions are:

  1. Is this formula compatible? Can I achieve a clear serum texture?
  2. Do you have any additional recommendations? Should I increase or decrease any ingredients?

Answer

Formula Compatibility and Clarity

Your proposed formula contains several beneficial natural extracts aimed at reducing acne, whitening, and brightening. However, achieving a clear serum with this specific combination is likely to be challenging due to potential compatibility issues and the natural color of some ingredients.

  1. Cationic/Anionic Interaction: The primary challenge for clarity is the presence of HyaCoat™ (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid). Cationic ingredients carry a positive charge. Your formula also includes Pro Polymer™ (Acrylate Crosspolymer), which is an anionic (negatively charged) thickener. Mixing cationic and anionic polymers or ingredients can lead to incompatibility, causing the formula to become cloudy, precipitate, or lose viscosity. This interaction is the main reason you may not achieve a clear serum.
  2. Natural Extract Colors: Several of the natural extracts you've included have their own color. Licorice Extract is described as a brown liquid, and Lemon Peel Bioferment (Lemon Skin™) is a yellow to orange liquid. Willow Bark Extract is clear to light yellow. These natural colors will contribute to the final appearance of the serum, making a truly colorless, clear serum difficult to achieve.

Therefore, while the ingredients themselves offer relevant benefits, their combination, particularly the cationic HyaCoat™ with the anionic Pro Polymer™ and the natural colors, will likely prevent the formula from being a clear serum.

Recommendations

To improve compatibility, clarity, and overall performance, consider the following recommendations:

  • Replace Cationic Hyaluronic Acid: To achieve a clear serum and avoid incompatibility with anionic ingredients like Pro Polymer™, it is strongly recommended to replace HyaCoat™ (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid) with a standard anionic or non-ionic form of hyaluronic acid. You can choose different molecular weights (small, standard, or large) depending on the desired skin feel and absorption properties.
  • Adjust Thickener if Needed: If you switch to a standard anionic hyaluronic acid, Pro Polymer™ should be compatible and can help create a clear gel texture. Ensure you follow the mixing instructions for Pro Polymer™, especially regarding hydration time and avoiding excessive blending.
  • Consider Extract Color: If a truly clear serum is essential, you may need to explore alternative forms of the extracts that are colorless or purified, if available. Otherwise, accept that the serum will have a natural tint from the Licorice Extract and Lemon Peel Bioferment.
  • Willow Bark Extract Concentration: A 10% concentration of Willow Bark Extract provides a significant amount of natural salicylic acid (equivalent to about 1.8-2.0% synthetic salicylic acid). While effective for exfoliation and acne, this concentration can be irritating for some skin types, especially in a leave-on product. You might consider reducing the concentration to 3-5% for general benefits or keeping it at 10% if targeting more intensive exfoliation, but advise users about potential sensitivity.
  • Ensure Proper pH: The active ingredients (Licorice, Willow Bark, Lemon Peel Bioferment) work best within a slightly acidic pH range (around 4.0-6.5). Ensure your final formula's pH falls within this range for optimal efficacy and stability of these ingredients, as well as compatibility with Pro Polymer™ and Mild Preserve Eco™.
  • Mixing Procedure: Follow the recommended mixing procedures for each ingredient. Add Disodium EDTA to the water phase first. Add heat-sensitive ingredients like Rosa Hybrid Cell Extract, Lemon Peel Bioferment, and Mild Preserve Eco in the final step after the base has cooled below their maximum temperature limits. Allow Pro Polymer™ sufficient time to hydrate fully for proper gel formation.

By addressing the cationic/anionic incompatibility and considering the natural colors, you can create a more stable and aesthetically pleasing serum, although achieving perfect clarity might depend on the specific extracts used.