Serum Formulation for Anti-Aging, Lifting, and Moisturizing: Ingredient Questions and Formula Review
คำถาม
I want to create a serum or liquid formula that can be used both day and night, focusing on anti-aging, lifting, tightening, and moisturizing.
Here are my questions:
Peptide Comparison and Combination:
- Compare Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) vs Wrinkle-Lax. Which is better?
- Do Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (Matrixyl 3000) need to be used only with Argireline?
- If I add Wrinkle Lax, will it significantly increase the anti-aging effectiveness, or will the results be redundant with Argireline and not provide additional benefits?
Seaweed/Plankton Extract Comparison:
- Compare Sea Kelp Extract vs Wakame Extract. Are their anti-aging and moisturizing properties similar? Which one contains more Fucoidan? If they are similar, which one should I choose, or should I include both?
- Marine Plankton (Lifting, Tightening) - Does this provide similar results to the seaweed extracts mentioned above? Is this the same type of plankton as used by Biotherm?
Penetration Enhancer:
- Based on my formula, should I include Laurocapram because I am using Pure-NAC (N-acetylcarnosine)? Is this the correct choice?
- Should I also include DMI 3% along with Laurocapram?
Overall Formula Review:
- Based on the formula, do I need to add another anti-irritant ingredient?
- If the focus is on anti-aging and lifting, are the peptide ingredients I've chosen too many or redundant? Should I remove or add any other ingredients?
- Is the amount of active ingredients too high and the water content too low? Is this formulation unsuitable? What kind of texture would the resulting formula have?
My Proposed Formula:
- Repair Activator: 10%
- Quick-Coll: 2%
- Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (Matrixyl 3000): 8%
- Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): 10%
- Wrinkle-Lax: 0.5%
- Adenosine Liposome: 3%
- Pure-NAC™ (N-acetylcarnosine): 1%
- Methylsilanol Mannuronate: 6%
- Pisum Sativum Extract (Pea-Ex™): 5%
- Ectoin: 2%
- Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins): 2%
- Wakame Extract: 3%
- Laurocapram: 3%
- Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free): 2%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule): 0.3%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Large Molecule): 0.5%
- HyaCoat™ Skin (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid): 0.2%
- Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule): 0.3%
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 3%
- Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 1%
- MOIST72™: 1%
- HydroAlgae: 2%
- Sterile Distilled Water: 34%
คำตอบ
Formula Review for Anti-Aging, Lifting, Tightening, and Moisturizing Serum
Here is a review of your proposed serum/liquid formula focusing on anti-aging, lifting, tightening, and moisturizing:
Ingredient Comparisons and Combinations
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) vs. Wrinkle-Lax: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) works by reducing muscle contractions that cause dynamic wrinkles, particularly around the eyes and forehead. Wrinkle-Lax also offers a muscle-relaxant effect, but through a different mechanism (stimulating the enzyme that breaks down the muscle-contracting signal). Using both could provide a more comprehensive approach to relaxing facial muscles and reducing expression lines, so including Wrinkle-Lax in addition to Argireline is not necessarily redundant; they can be complementary.
Matrixyl 3000 with Argireline: Matrixyl 3000 (containing Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR) stimulates collagen synthesis and helps reduce wrinkles, improve elasticity, and reduce inflammation. The product description for Matrixyl 3000 explicitly states it is suitable for use with Argireline, as they target different aspects of anti-aging (collagen building vs. muscle relaxation).
Sea Kelp Extract vs. Wakame Extract vs. Marine Plankton:
- Sea Kelp Extract is primarily known for its moisturizing and nourishing properties, strengthening the skin barrier, and providing antioxidant benefits. It contains Fucoidan, which helps increase fibroblast proliferation for anti-aging.
- Wakame Extract is highlighted for its anti-aging, lifting, and tightening effects, specifically through stimulating collagen synthesis. Its fermentation process is noted to improve absorption.
- Marine Plankton provides an immediate skin tightening effect due to its polysaccharide content and also offers longer-term lifting and wrinkle reduction with continued use. The Marine Plankton mentioned is sourced from France and contains high molecular weight polymers.
- Comparing them, Sea Kelp and Wakame both offer anti-aging and moisturizing benefits from seaweed components (Fucoidan/Fucoxanthin), with Wakame having a noted lifting/tightening effect. Marine Plankton provides a distinct, immediate tightening effect plus longer-term benefits. Using them together could offer a range of benefits, from immediate tightening to long-term collagen stimulation and overall skin health. Your formula includes Wakame Extract.
- Regarding Marine Plankton's similarity to Biotherm's ingredient, the description notes its origin and function, which aligns with the type of plankton extracts used in some high-end products, but it doesn't confirm it is the exact same ingredient used by Biotherm.
Laurocapram for Pure-NAC Absorption: The product description for Pure-NAC (N-acetylcarnosine) recommends using a penetration enhancer like Laurocapram (at 3%) for better absorption. Your choice of Laurocapram at 3% aligns with this recommendation. The description for Laurocapram advises against using it with other carriers except 1,2-Hexanediol, so adding DMI alongside Laurocapram is not recommended based on this information.
Overall Formula Considerations
Anti-Irritant: Your formula already includes ingredients known for their anti-irritant and soothing properties, such as Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5), and Ectoin. These should provide sufficient anti-irritant benefits, so adding another specific anti-irritant may not be necessary, depending on the desired level of soothing.
Peptide Concentration and Redundancy: Your formula contains a high concentration and variety of peptides and anti-aging actives. While many target different mechanisms (muscle relaxation, collagen/elastin stimulation, DNA repair, anti-elastase, lifting/tightening), the total percentage is quite high. Some ingredients, like Matrixyl 3000 (8% vs recommended 3-5%), Argireline (10% vs recommended 3-10%), Wrinkle-Lax (0.5% vs recommended 0.3-0.5%), Pure-NAC (1% vs recommended 0.2-1.0%), Methylsilanol Mannuronate (6% vs recommended 4-6%), and Quick-Coll (2% vs recommended 0.1-2%), are used at or above the higher end of their recommended ranges. While combining actives can be beneficial, using very high concentrations of multiple potent ingredients could potentially increase the risk of skin sensitivity or irritation for some individuals. It's a very active formula.
Active Ingredients vs. Water / Texture: With a high total percentage of active ingredients, humectants (various Hyaluronic Acid types, Safe-B3, Panthenol, MOIST72, HydroAlgae), and a relatively lower water percentage (34%), the resulting texture is likely to be a viscous serum or a light gel, rather than a watery liquid. The high concentration of actives and humectants will contribute to the viscosity and could potentially feel slightly heavy or even a bit sticky depending on the specific interactions and the remaining unlisted ingredients.
Overall, your formula is packed with potent anti-aging, lifting, tightening, and moisturizing ingredients. The combinations of peptides and extracts target multiple pathways of skin aging. However, the high overall concentration of actives, particularly some peptides, is noted and could potentially increase the risk of irritation. The texture will likely be a viscous serum or light gel due to the high active and humectant load relative to the water content.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
MOIST72™
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed)
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
Adenosine Liposome
HyaCoat™ (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid)
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Hyaluronic Acid (Large Molecule, 2M Daltons)
Pisum Sativum Extract (Pea-Ex™)
Quick-Coll®
Laurocapram (Water Soluble)
Methylsilanol Mannuronate
Pure-NAC™ (N-acetylcarnosine)