Serum Formulation for Anti-Aging, Whitening, and Hydration: Compatibility and Fragrance

Hello,

Regarding the serum formulation you've described, which focuses on anti-aging, whitening, and moisturizing properties with a slightly viscous serum texture, and includes the following ingredients:

• Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 3%
• Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate) 10%
• Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 40%
• beta glucan (Saccharomyces Cerevisiae) 5%
• 8D Hya 10%
• water lock (Polyquaternium-51) 1%
• MOIST24 (Glycereth-26) 5%
• 4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate) 3%
• Tranexamic Acid 3%
• Laurocapram water soluble (Azone) 2%
• Mild Preservative (Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol) 1%
• DI Water to 100%

Here are the answers to your questions:

Are the ingredients compatible? Should any be added or removed?

• Compatibility: Based on the ingredients listed, the formulation appears generally compatible, assuming the percentages refer to typical stock solutions of these ingredients, which is standard practice in cosmetic formulation.
• Viscosity: The combination of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (40%) and 8D Hya (10%) will likely result in a significantly viscous serum. The final texture will depend heavily on the specific type and concentration of the 8D Hya product used. If you aim for a slightly viscous texture, you might consider slightly reducing the amount of 8D Hya or Galactomyces, or choosing a grade of 8D Hya with lower viscosity.
• Laurocapram: The inclusion of Laurocapram at 2% acts as a penetration enhancer. However, 2% is a relatively high concentration for Laurocapram (Azone) and could potentially cause skin irritation for some individuals. Typical usage rates are often lower (e.g., 0.1-1%). You might consider reducing this percentage or testing for irritation on your skin before widespread use.
• Total Concentration: The sum of the percentages is quite high (83% excluding water). This reinforces the assumption that these are stock solution percentages. Ensure you are using the correct recommended usage rates for the active components within these stock solutions and always calculate the water amount to reach 100%.
• Suggestions for Additions:
  • Consider adding a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA (typically 0.05-0.1%) to improve the stability of the formulation, especially with the presence of various active ingredients.
  • You may also need to adjust the pH of the final product, as many of these ingredients perform best within a specific pH range (often slightly acidic for ferments and some whitening agents). Adjusting the pH to the appropriate range will help the ingredients work effectively and maintain stability.

I've purchased some ingredients that have a bad smell. I want to add fragrance to adjust the smell in the formula. What type of fragrance should I use?

Regarding the smell from some ingredients (ferments like Galactomyces or Bifida can have a distinct odor), you can add a cosmetic-grade fragrance to help mask it.

• Type of Fragrance: You should use a water-soluble fragrance specifically designed for skincare products to ensure it integrates well with your water-based serum formula.
• Usage Level: Start with a low concentration, typically around 0.1-0.5% of the total formula, and gradually increase as needed until you achieve the desired scent. Avoid using excessively high amounts, as this can cause irritation.
• Caution: Please be aware that fragrances can sometimes cause allergic reactions or irritation in some individuals. If your skin is sensitive, you might consider using the lowest possible amount or avoiding fragrance altogether.

Overall, this formula includes good ingredients for the properties you desire. Pay close attention to adjusting the viscosity from the high levels of ferments and 8D Hya, consider reducing the Laurocapram percentage, and always perform stability and compatibility testing on your final formulation.

Hope this information is helpful!