Serum Formulation for Rejuvenation, Anti-Wrinkle, Hydration, and Brightening

Subject: Serum Formulation Review

Thank you for providing your proposed serum formulation focusing on skin rejuvenation, anti-wrinkle, hydration, and brightening for dry skin, aiming for a texture similar to Estee Lauder ANR.

Your selection of ingredients aligns well with your goals:

• Rejuvenation & Anti-aging: High concentrations of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate and Bifida Ferment Lysate, along with peptides (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5), Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ectoin, and Beta Glucan, provide a strong foundation for addressing wrinkles and improving skin vitality.
• Hydration: Ingredients like Galactomyces, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ectoin, Beta Glucan, Moist 24, Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer, and Phospholipid are excellent for hydrating dry skin. The high percentage of Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer will contribute significantly to moisture and texture.
• Brightening: Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine, Activated Resorcinol, and Licochalcone A form a powerful combination to target dullness and freckles. Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine work synergistically, and Activated Resorcinol is known for its efficacy on hyperpigmentation.

Formulation Considerations & Points to Check:

1. Total Concentration: The percentages listed sum to 100%. Please confirm if these are the desired active percentages to be added to a base (like water or a solvent system) to create the final product. A finished serum requires a base.
2. Potential for Irritation: You have included two penetration enhancers, Laurocapram (2%) and Dimethyl Isosorbide (3%), at relatively high concentrations. While they improve delivery of actives, combining them at these levels, especially with potent ingredients like Activated Resorcinol, increases the risk of irritation, redness, or stinging, particularly for dry skin which may have a compromised barrier. It is highly recommended to carefully evaluate the need for both at these percentages and potentially reduce one or both to minimize irritation risk.
3. Odor-Kill Percentage: The 1% concentration for Odor-Kill seems higher than typical usage rates. Please verify the supplier's recommended usage level and adjust accordingly.
4. Texture: The combination of high percentages of Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer (5%) and Silicone Gel (5%) will significantly influence the texture, providing hydration and a smooth feel. Achieving a texture exactly like Estee Lauder ANR will require careful formulation and potentially adjustments to these percentages or the base to fine-tune the feel. Satin Cream Maker will also contribute to the texture.
5. pH and Stability: With such a complex mix of actives, controlling the final pH is crucial for ingredient stability and efficacy (e.g., Niacinamide, peptides, Activated Resorcinol) and for skin compatibility. Comprehensive stability testing is strongly recommended to ensure the product remains effective and safe over time.

In principle, the ingredients you've selected can be combined to create a powerful serum targeting your concerns. However, careful formulation, particularly regarding penetration enhancers and overall active load in the final base, as well as rigorous stability and compatibility testing, are essential to ensure safety, efficacy, and the desired texture.