Serum Formulation for Whitening, Melasma, and Dark Spots

Asked by: mayurin-tengya On: June 29, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have combination skin and want to make a 100g semi-gel facial serum with the following ingredients:

  1. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1140-tranexamic-acid-%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%84-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%94.html:pxzd4aps]Tranexamic Acid[/url:pxzd4aps] 3%
  2. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/1213-4msk-potassium-methoxysalicylate.html:pxzd4aps]4MSK[/url:pxzd4aps] 2.5%
  3. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:pxzd4aps]Safe-B3™[/url:pxzd4aps] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:pxzd4aps]Vitamin B3, Niacinamide[/url:pxzd4aps]) 5%
  4. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:pxzd4aps]GlucoBright™[/url:pxzd4aps] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/116-glucosamine-n-acetyl-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:pxzd4aps]Acetyl glucosamine[/url:pxzd4aps]) 4%
  5. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:pxzd4aps]Mild Preserved Eco™[/url:pxzd4aps] 1%
  6. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/75-allantoin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2.html:pxzd4aps]Allantoin[/url:pxzd4aps] 0.3%
  7. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%A5-thickener/234-pro-polymer-acrylate-crosspolymer.html:pxzd4aps]Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)[/url:pxzd4aps] 1 %
  8. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:pxzd4aps]Distilled Water[/url:pxzd4aps] (Sterile) 83.2%

I need advice on whether I should adjust or add anything to this formula. I want to make a concentrated formula for personal use.

  • I want to reduce melanin pigment for brighter skin and reduce melasma, freckles, and dark spots.
  • I want the serum to not feel sticky after application.
  • Do I need to add a [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/121-penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7:pxzd4aps]penetration enhancer[/url:pxzd4aps]? If so, which one do you recommend?
  • I have checked and tried to keep the pH not too acidic.

Answer

This is a well-designed serum formula targeting melasma, freckles, and skin brightening, suitable for mixed skin.

Here's a review of your formula:

  • Ingredient Selection: The combination of Tranexamic Acid, 4MSK, Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide), and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine) is excellent. These ingredients work through different mechanisms to effectively reduce melanin production and improve skin tone, directly addressing your goal of reducing melasma/dark spots and achieving brighter skin. Allantoin is a good addition for soothing the skin.
  • Concentration: The percentages you've chosen result in a highly concentrated formula, which aligns with your requirement for a potent product.
  • Potential for Irritation: While concentrated formulas can be very effective, the combination of multiple potent actives at these percentages (especially Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, and 4MSK) could potentially cause irritation, particularly for sensitive skin. It is highly recommended to perform a patch test before applying the serum to your entire face.
  • Texture: Using 1% Pro Polymer™ should create a gel-like texture as desired. The final feel, including how non-sticky it is, will depend on the specific type of Pro Polymer™ and the overall formulation process. You will need to test this after making the serum.
  • Penetration Enhancer: You asked if a penetration enhancer is needed. For the ingredients you are using, a penetration enhancer is not strictly necessary for them to work, as they have some inherent ability to penetrate the skin. However, adding one could potentially enhance their delivery and boost efficacy. The trade-off is that it might also increase the risk of irritation from the active ingredients. If you decide you want to explore this, you could search for "penetration enhancer" (สารนำพาสาร) in product type '2' (cosmetics) using the ProductSearch tool to see available options, but I cannot recommend a specific product name without performing a search first.
  • pH Level: It's great that you are mindful of the pH. Checking and adjusting the final pH of your serum is crucial. Aim for a skin-friendly range, typically between 4.5 and 6.5, which is also suitable for the stability and efficacy of ingredients like Niacinamide.

Overall: Your formula is a strong and targeted approach for addressing melasma and brightening. The ingredient choices and concentrations are appropriate for a concentrated product. Be mindful of the potential for irritation and test the texture and pH after preparation.

Would you like me to retrieve the full descriptions for any of the ingredients you listed?

Related Products Mentioned

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Allantoin
Cosmetics
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)

Tags

Gel Melasma Treatment Penetration Enhancer Serum Skin Brightening