Serum Formulation: Preservative Substitution and pH Adjustment for Handheld Blending
Question
I have a revised serum formula provided by the staff, intended for wrinkle reduction and skin nourishment for combination skin (age 55), suitable for handheld blending:
- Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclomethicone Base) (ID 201) 5%
- LipidSoft™ Moist (ID 990) 5%
- Distilled Water (ID 838) Remaining to 100% (approx. 61.5%)
- Phospholipid (ID 1169) 3%
- Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (ID 1201) 1%
- RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) (ID 1165) 1%
- Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) (ID 1058) 2.5%
- Repair Activator™ (ID 259) 10%
- Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (ID 1124) 2.5%
- Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide) (ID 74) 5%
- Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) 2%
- Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) 1%
Can I substitute the preservative Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) with Global Guard™ (ID 879) in this revised formula? What are the considerations regarding pH and viscosity if I make this substitution?
Answer
Serum Formula Analysis
Regarding your initial serum formula for a thick serum targeting wrinkle reduction and skin nourishment for combination skin (age 55):
Your initial formula included a variety of silicones, emollients, and active ingredients:
- Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor) (ID 171) 30%
- Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclomethicone Base) (ID 201) 5%
- LipidSoft™ Moist (ID 990) 10%
- Warp Cream Maker™ (ID 288) 7%
- Distilled Water (ID 838) 17%
- Butylene Glycol (ID 320) 10%
- Phospholipid (ID 1169) 4%
- Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (ID 1201) 1%
- RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) (ID 1165) 1%
- Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) (ID 1058) 2.5%
- Repair Activator™ (ID 259) 10%
- Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (ID 1124) 2.5%
This formula contains a good selection of ingredients for your stated goals. However, as the staff correctly pointed out, the compatibility and stability of this formula heavily depend on the emulsifier, Warp Cream Maker™ (ID 288). This type of emulsifier typically requires a high-shear blender for proper emulsification and thickening. Using only a handheld blender might not provide sufficient power, potentially leading to an unstable emulsion or failure to achieve the desired thick texture.
Revised Formula Recommendation
The staff recommended a revised formula better suited for handheld blending, replacing Warp Cream Maker™ with Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) and making other adjustments:
- Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclomethicone Base) (ID 201) 5%
- LipidSoft™ Moist (ID 990) 5%
- Distilled Water (ID 838) Remaining to 100% (approx. 61.5%)
- Phospholipid (ID 1169) 3%
- Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (ID 1201) 1%
- RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) (ID 1165) 1%
- Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) (ID 1058) 2.5%
- Repair Activator™ (ID 259) 10%
- Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (ID 1124) 2.5%
- Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide) (ID 74) 5%
- Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) 2%
- Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) 1%
This revised formula is designed to be more compatible with handheld blending while still providing key active ingredients for anti-aging and skin health, including the added Niacinamide (Safe-B3). The Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) acts as the primary emulsifier and thickener in this version.
Preservative Substitution (Global Guard™)
You asked if you could substitute Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) with Global Guard™ (ID 879).
Yes, you can use Global Guard™ (ID 879) as a preservative in the revised formula. However, as the staff advised, it is crucial to adjust the final pH of the serum to below 5.5 for Global Guard™ to be effective. If the pH is higher than 5.5 after mixing, you will need to add a small amount of a weak acid, such as Citric Acid (ID 153), to lower it.
Also, be aware that using Global Guard™ (ID 879) might slightly reduce the viscosity (make it thinner). If the serum becomes too thin for your preference after adding Global Guard™, you may need to increase the percentage of Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) slightly to achieve the desired thickness.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Citric Acid (Monohydrate, Natural)
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky)
Satin Cream Maker™
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
Butylene Glycol
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Global Guard™ K712
LipidSoft™ Moist (Triethylhexanoin)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed)
RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract)