Serum Formulation: Preservative Substitution and pH Adjustment for Handheld Blending

Asked by: acabane_108 On: December 17, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a revised serum formula provided by the staff, intended for wrinkle reduction and skin nourishment for combination skin (age 55), suitable for handheld blending:

  • Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclomethicone Base) (ID 201) 5%
  • LipidSoft™ Moist (ID 990) 5%
  • Distilled Water (ID 838) Remaining to 100% (approx. 61.5%)
  • Phospholipid (ID 1169) 3%
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (ID 1201) 1%
  • RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) (ID 1165) 1%
  • Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) (ID 1058) 2.5%
  • Repair Activator™ (ID 259) 10%
  • Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (ID 1124) 2.5%
  • Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide) (ID 74) 5%
  • Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) 2%
  • Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) 1%

Can I substitute the preservative Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) with Global Guard™ (ID 879) in this revised formula? What are the considerations regarding pH and viscosity if I make this substitution?

Answer

Serum Formula Analysis

Regarding your initial serum formula for a thick serum targeting wrinkle reduction and skin nourishment for combination skin (age 55):

Your initial formula included a variety of silicones, emollients, and active ingredients:

  • Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor) (ID 171) 30%
  • Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclomethicone Base) (ID 201) 5%
  • LipidSoft™ Moist (ID 990) 10%
  • Warp Cream Maker™ (ID 288) 7%
  • Distilled Water (ID 838) 17%
  • Butylene Glycol (ID 320) 10%
  • Phospholipid (ID 1169) 4%
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (ID 1201) 1%
  • RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) (ID 1165) 1%
  • Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) (ID 1058) 2.5%
  • Repair Activator™ (ID 259) 10%
  • Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (ID 1124) 2.5%

This formula contains a good selection of ingredients for your stated goals. However, as the staff correctly pointed out, the compatibility and stability of this formula heavily depend on the emulsifier, Warp Cream Maker™ (ID 288). This type of emulsifier typically requires a high-shear blender for proper emulsification and thickening. Using only a handheld blender might not provide sufficient power, potentially leading to an unstable emulsion or failure to achieve the desired thick texture.

Revised Formula Recommendation

The staff recommended a revised formula better suited for handheld blending, replacing Warp Cream Maker™ with Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) and making other adjustments:

  • Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclomethicone Base) (ID 201) 5%
  • LipidSoft™ Moist (ID 990) 5%
  • Distilled Water (ID 838) Remaining to 100% (approx. 61.5%)
  • Phospholipid (ID 1169) 3%
  • Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract) (ID 1201) 1%
  • RETINAT™ (Starfish Extract) (ID 1165) 1%
  • Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) (ID 1058) 2.5%
  • Repair Activator™ (ID 259) 10%
  • Wakame Extract (Brown Sea Weed) (ID 1124) 2.5%
  • Safe-B3 (Vitamin B3 / Niacinamide) (ID 74) 5%
  • Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) 2%
  • Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) 1%

This revised formula is designed to be more compatible with handheld blending while still providing key active ingredients for anti-aging and skin health, including the added Niacinamide (Safe-B3). The Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) acts as the primary emulsifier and thickener in this version.

Preservative Substitution (Global Guard™)

You asked if you could substitute Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) with Global Guard™ (ID 879).

Yes, you can use Global Guard™ (ID 879) as a preservative in the revised formula. However, as the staff advised, it is crucial to adjust the final pH of the serum to below 5.5 for Global Guard™ to be effective. If the pH is higher than 5.5 after mixing, you will need to add a small amount of a weak acid, such as Citric Acid (ID 153), to lower it.

Also, be aware that using Global Guard™ (ID 879) might slightly reduce the viscosity (make it thinner). If the serum becomes too thin for your preference after adding Global Guard™, you may need to increase the percentage of Satin Cream Maker (ID 247) slightly to achieve the desired thickness.