Formulation Review for Oily, Dehydrated, Acne-Prone Skin with Fine Lines

Your goal is to address oily skin that lacks hydration, occasional clogged and inflamed acne, and prevent wrinkles. The ingredients you've chosen are generally well-suited for these concerns.

Acne and Oil Control

• Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 5%: Panthenol is excellent for hydration, wound healing, and reducing inflammation, which can help with acne. 5% is a good concentration for these benefits.
• Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 4%: Niacinamide is a star ingredient for oily and acne-prone skin. It helps regulate oil production, reduce inflammation, improve skin barrier function (addressing dehydration), and can also help with redness and hyperpigmentation from acne. 4% is an effective concentration.
• Glucosamine (N-acetyl-D) 4%: N-acetyl Glucosamine works well with Niacinamide for improving skin tone and hydration. It also has mild exfoliating properties without irritation, which can help with clogged pores, and supports hyaluronic acid production in the skin. 4% is a suitable percentage.
• Aloe Vera Extract 3%: Aloe Vera is known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties, beneficial for irritated skin and acne. 3% is a good inclusion rate.
• Green Tea Extract (EGCG 95%) 2%: Green tea extract, particularly with high EGCG content, is a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can help reduce oiliness and calm inflammation associated with acne. 2% is a good concentration.

These ingredients form a strong base for managing oil, reducing inflammation, and supporting skin health to combat acne and dehydration.

Hydration

You included Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, and Urea for hydration. As the staff member noted, this combination is typically used for very dry, rough, or flaky skin because they are strong components of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF).

Given your description of skin that becomes oily after washing and has fine lines (indicating dehydration rather than severe dryness), the combination of Panthenol, Glucosamine, Aloe Vera Extract, and the two types of Hyaluronic Acid you included should provide sufficient hydration without being overly heavy or potentially causing issues like stickiness or exacerbating oiliness.

• Hyaluronic Acid Nano Molecule 0.5% and Hyaluronic Acid Standard Molecule 0.5%: Using different molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid helps hydrate different layers of the skin. Nano molecules can penetrate deeper, while standard molecules hydrate the surface. A total of 1% Hyaluronic Acid is a good level for providing ample hydration to address the dehydration contributing to your oiliness and fine lines.

Therefore, based on the staff's advice and your skin type, it would be beneficial to remove Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, and Urea from the formulation. The remaining hydrating ingredients are well-suited for oily and dehydrated skin.

Regarding Sodium Lactate for exfoliation, a 3% concentration is indeed too low for a significant exfoliating effect. If you require exfoliation, consider incorporating a gentle exfoliant separately or at a higher concentration if formulating a dedicated exfoliating product, keeping in mind the need to avoid irritation on acne-prone skin.

Anti-Wrinkle

• Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract 5%: Centella Asiatica is excellent for wound healing, reducing inflammation, and stimulating collagen production, which helps with wrinkles and skin repair. However, 5% is a very high concentration, especially for extracts standardized for specific compounds like Madecassoside or TECA, which often have limited solubility. A more typical and effective usage rate is 1-2%. Using a lower percentage like 1-2% would still provide significant anti-aging and soothing benefits while being easier to formulate.
• Matrixyl™ 3000 5%: Matrixyl 3000 is a well-regarded peptide blend that stimulates collagen and elastin production, effectively targeting wrinkles and improving skin elasticity. 5% is an effective and appropriate concentration for anti-aging benefits.

Consider reducing the Centella Asiatica Extract to 1-2% for optimal formulation and efficacy.

Preservative

• Phenoxyethanol 1%: Phenoxyethanol is a common and effective preservative used at 0.5-1.0%. 1% is within the typical range for preserving a water-based formulation. Depending on the specific type of Phenoxyethanol used (e.g., Extra Pure, or blends like Phenoxyethanol SA), the recommended usage rate might vary slightly, but 1% is generally acceptable. Ensure the pH of your final formula is within the effective range for Phenoxyethanol (typically 2-9).

Summary of Suggested Adjustments

1. Remove Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, and Urea.
2. Reduce Centella Asiatica Extract from 5% to 1-2%.
3. Keep all other ingredients and their percentages as listed.

This adjusted formulation maintains the key ingredients for managing oil and acne, provides appropriate hydration for oily-dehydrated skin, and includes effective anti-aging components at suitable concentrations.