Serum Formulation with Aloe Vera Gel Base for Combination, Acne-Prone Skin

Asked by: jantima.jjj On: January 23, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to create a serum for combination skin that is oily underneath but dry and flaky on the surface, and also prone to acne (clogged pores). I used the following formulation:

  • Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy): 3%
  • Water: 87%
  • Other active ingredients: 10%

When I apply this serum, it feels tight and sticky. Our staff advised that Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) should be used as a base to replace all the water, not added to water, and that Aloe Vera Extract should be used if I want aloe vera as an active ingredient. They also mentioned that the formula might not address my skin imbalance and acne issues directly and suggested focusing on ingredients that balance oil, strengthen skin, and treat clogged pores.

Could you please clarify:

  1. Is my understanding correct that Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) and Aloe Vera Gel Lite must replace 100% of the water if used as a base?
  2. If I want aloe vera as an active ingredient, I should use Aloe Vera Extract instead of Aloe Vera Gel?
  3. Where can I find the INCI Name for Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) and other ingredients?
  4. Given my skin condition (dry/flaky outer layer, oily underneath, acne/clogged pores), what kind of ingredients or approach should I focus on to balance my skin and treat the acne effectively, rather than just trying to fix the texture issue in my current formula attempt?

Answer

Hello,

Regarding the serum formula you provided and the advice from our staff, here are some clarifications:

  1. Usage of Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy): According to the staff's recommendation, Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy) is a Base for the formula texture, not an ingredient to be added to water. If you want to use Aloe Vera Gel as a base, you should use it to replace all the water in the formula, and then add other active ingredients as needed into this Gel Base. Therefore, using 3% Aloe Vera Gel together with 87% water in your formula is incorrect based on the product's purpose.
  2. Issue with Tight/Sticky Feeling: This feeling might result from using incompatible or unsuitable ingredients in the formula, especially when the Gel Base is used incorrectly. Aristoflex AVC is a gelling agent, which might contribute to a tight or sticky feeling if used in an inappropriate amount or if it's incompatible with other ingredients. However, the main issue in this formula is the incorrect use of the Aloe Vera Gel Base.
  3. Switching to Aloe Vera Gel Lite: Similar to Aloe Vera Gel Heavy, Aloe Vera Gel Lite is also a base. If you want to use it, you should use it to replace all the water in the formula, not add it to the water. If you want aloe vera as an active ingredient, you should use Aloe Vera Extract.
  4. INCI Name for Aloe Vera Gel (Heavy): You can check the INCI Name for various ingredients on the MySkinRecipes website by clicking on the "Technique" section and looking at the last line of information for each product.
  5. Adding Aloe Vera Extract: If you want to use Aloe Vera Extract as an active ingredient in your formula, you should choose Aloe Vera Extract. This can be used with a suitable base (like water, or a Gel Base used to replace all the water). However, the staff provided more important advice: addressing the underlying skin imbalance (dry outer layer, but oily underneath), which is the root cause of the symptoms.

Additional Advice from Staff:

  • Skin issues like acne, oiliness, and flakiness indicate a skin imbalance. The formula you provided may not effectively address this issue directly.
  • The most important step is to analyze and correct the cause of the skin imbalance first.
  • You should choose ingredients that help balance oil, strengthen the skin, and manage acne issues (such as clogged pores) at an appropriate level, not too much, which could cause further skin imbalance.

In summary, the main issue in your formula is the incorrect usage of the Aloe Vera Gel Base. More importantly, you should focus on selecting ingredients that help resolve the existing skin imbalance and acne issues directly.