Shampoo Separation After Adding Oil and Lanolin Alternatives

Asked by: aticha.lomagroup On: July 19, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I added Fractionated Coconut Oil to my pearl shampoo formulation, but it separated and formed a white film.

1. Why did this happen?
2. How can I fix this issue in the future?
3. Can I use Lanolin instead? If so, what type and percentage should I use in 1 kg of pearl shampoo?

Answer

Shampoo Separation Issue

The separation observed when adding Fractionated Coconut Oil to your pearl shampoo is likely due to the incompatibility of the oil with the water-based shampoo formula. Fractionated Coconut Oil is an oil-soluble ingredient (specifically, a triglyceride) and does not naturally mix with water-based systems like shampoo without the aid of a suitable emulsifier.

Shampoo bases are primarily water and surfactants, often containing dispersed ingredients like pearlizers (such as those found in emulPearl™) to create the pearlescent effect. Adding an oil without properly emulsifying it disrupts the stability of the shampoo base, causing the oil to separate and float, potentially interacting with or affecting the pearlizing agent, leading to the white film you observed.

It is generally difficult to fix a batch that has already separated. For future formulations, if you wish to incorporate oils like Fractionated Coconut Oil, you would need to include an emulsifier compatible with surfactant systems to ensure the oil remains stably dispersed throughout the shampoo.

Using Lanolin as an Alternative

Regarding using Lanolin, it depends on the type of Lanolin. Standard anhydrous Lanolin is also oil-soluble and would likely cause similar separation issues if added directly to a shampoo base without an emulsifier.

However, there are water-soluble forms of Lanolin available, such as Lanolin Water Soluble (PEG-75 Lanolin). This type is designed to be incorporated into water-based products like shampoos and conditioners, providing conditioning benefits without causing separation.

If you use Lanolin Water Soluble (PEG-75 Lanolin), it can be added directly to the water phase of your shampoo formulation. A recommended usage rate is typically 3-5% of the total formula weight. For 1 kg of pearl shampoo, this would be approximately 30-50 grams of Lanolin Water Soluble.

Using an oil-soluble Lanolin would require the addition of an appropriate emulsifier, similar to incorporating Fractionated Coconut Oil.