Skin Cream Formulation with DMAE, SynColl, Vitamin B3, Repair Activator: Compatibility, Texture, Scent, and Outsourcing

Asked by: woodymansurat On: January 29, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to formulate a skin cream with the following ingredients:

  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid 10%
  • Pep®-Coll (SynColl) 3%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3) Powder 5%
  • Repair Activator™ BG 10%
  • Pro Polymer™ (Acrylate Crosspolymer) 2%
  • Phenoxyethanol 1%
  • Water 69%

Regarding this formula:

  1. Are these ingredients compatible?
  2. Could you provide additional advice regarding the scent and texture of the cream?
  3. Can I purchase the ingredients here and have them mixed elsewhere? Could you recommend sources for mixing services?

Answer

Formulation Review and Recommendations

Here is a review of your proposed skin cream formulation and answers to your questions:

1. Compatibility of the Formula

The ingredients you have selected are generally compatible for a water-based gel or cream formulation. Most are water-soluble and can be incorporated into the water phase.

However, please note the following regarding the concentrations and potential interactions:

  • DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: You are using this at the maximum recommended rate of 10%. While possible, the product description indicates that using it above 5% may cause skin irritation and a sticky feeling. You might consider starting with a lower concentration, such as the recommended 3%, especially if you have sensitive skin, or include soothing ingredients in your formula.
  • pH Considerations: Vitamin B3 (Safe-B3™) works best in a pH range of 3-8 (optimally 4-7), and Repair Activator™ BG is in the pH range of 4-5.5. DMAE is a basic ingredient and will raise the pH of the formula. It is important to check and potentially adjust the final pH of your mixture to ensure the efficacy and stability of these ingredients, aiming for a pH that is compatible with all components, ideally within the 4-7 range.
  • Mixing Order: A recommended mixing order would be to first disperse the Pro Polymer™ in the water to form the gel base. Then, add other water-soluble ingredients like Vitamin B3 and Phenoxyethanol. Heat-sensitive ingredients such as DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid, Pep®-Coll, and Repair Activator™ BG should be added in the cool-down phase, once the mixture temperature is below 40°C.

2. Scent and Texture Recommendations

  • Texture: With 2% Pro Polymer™, your formula is expected to have a gel texture. At this concentration, it might lean towards a creamy or pudding-like gel texture as described for higher usage rates. The 10% DMAE might contribute to a slightly sticky feel upon application, as noted in its description.
  • Scent: DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid has a characteristic odor, although it has been processed to reduce it. Repair Activator™ BG also has a mild odor. The final product will likely have a noticeable scent from these ingredients. If you prefer a different scent, you could add a small amount of fragrance suitable for cosmetic use. Ensure the fragrance is compatible with the other ingredients and used within recommended rates.

3. Purchasing Ingredients and Outsourcing Mixing

You can purchase all the listed ingredients from MySkinRecipes. Regarding outsourcing the mixing process, while it is possible to purchase ingredients and have them mixed elsewhere, I cannot provide specific recommendations for external mixing service providers. You would need to research and find a cosmetic manufacturer or lab that offers small-batch mixing services.

Always perform a small test batch first to check compatibility, texture, scent, and skin feel before making a larger quantity.