Sleeping Mask Formula Review and Adjustment

ถามโดย: justfaidindyeye เมื่อ: July 11, 2021 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I want to make a sleeping mask using the following formula. Could you please review it to see if it is usable and suggest if I need to add, reduce, or change any ingredients? The formula is: Any Cream Base 78%, Ethoxydiglycol 2%, WaterLock 2%, MOIST72 2%, Any Natural Extract 4%, Walnut Oil 5%, Vitamin B6 2%, Alpha Arbutin 1%, Poly conditioner Easy 1%, Double Hyaluron Liquid 3%.

คำตอบ

Review of Your Sleeping Mask Formulation

Thank you for sharing your sleeping mask formulation. Here is a review of the ingredients and some points to consider:

Ingredient Analysis and Usage Rates

  • Any Cream Base (78%): This forms the bulk of your mask. The type of cream base you choose will affect the texture and stability.
  • Ethoxydiglycol (2%): This is within the recommended usage rate (1-10%, max 2.6% for leave-on) and acts as a good solvent and carrier to help other ingredients penetrate the skin. This percentage is suitable.
  • WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51) (2%): This is within the recommended range (1-2%, 2% for dry skin) and is excellent for preventing water loss, suitable for a sleeping mask. It is compatible with pH 3-8.
  • MOIST72™ (Saccharide Isomerate) (2%): This is within the typical usage range (2-5%, 2-3% for normal skin) and provides long-lasting hydration. It should be added below 40°C and is stable at pH 4-8.
  • Any Natural Extract (4%): This is a significant percentage, but "any natural extract" is too general. Different extracts have different recommended usage rates, solubility, and pH requirements. You must specify the exact extract you plan to use and verify its compatibility and safe usage level.
  • Walnut Oil (Refined, Cosmetics) (5%): This is within the usage range (1-100%) and provides beneficial fatty acids. It should be incorporated into the oil phase and protected from heat and light.
  • Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride) (2%): This is within the usage range (0.5-3%). It helps with oil control and pore appearance on oily skin. However, it has a low pH (2-3), is unstable above pH 6, sensitive to heat and light, and is an electrolyte that can soften formulas. This ingredient requires careful handling and pH adjustment.
  • Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) (1%): This is within the usage range (0.2-2%, 2% recommended for whitening). It requires a pH of 3.5-6.5 and should be added below 30°C. It can degrade to hydroquinone at pH above 8.
  • Poly-Conditioner Easy (Polyquaternium-39) (1%): This is within the recommended range (1-4%, 1-2% recommended) and provides a nice skin feel. It dissolves in water at room temperature.
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid (3%): This is at the lower end of the recommended range for normal/dehydrated skin (3-5%). For a sleeping mask focused on hydration, you might consider increasing this to 5% for enhanced moisturizing benefits, provided your base can handle the viscosity change. It is compatible with pH 3-9.

Potential Issues and Recommendations

  1. pH Compatibility: The most critical factor is pH. Vitamin B6 has a low pH and is unstable above 6, while Alpha Arbutin needs 3.5-6.5. MOIST72 needs 4-8. You will need to carefully adjust the final pH of your formula to be within a range that accommodates all active ingredients, ideally between 4 and 6.5. This will require testing the pH of your final mixture and adjusting it.
  2. Alpha Arbutin Stability: To help prevent Alpha Arbutin from discoloring, it is highly recommended to add ActiveProtec™ OX at 0.6% to your formula. This ingredient helps protect against oxidation. Note that ActiveProtec™ OX is an electrolyte and requires the formula pH to be above 4.
  3. Vitamin B6 Stability and Formula Softening: Vitamin B6's low pH and electrolyte nature may soften your cream base. You might need to adjust the amount of cream base or add a stabilizer. Also, protect the final product from light due to Vitamin B6's sensitivity.
  4. Natural Extract Specificity: Please specify the exact natural extract you plan to use so its compatibility and recommended usage rate can be verified.
  5. Mixing Procedure: Add heat-sensitive ingredients (Vitamin B6, Alpha Arbutin, MOIST72) during the cooling phase, ensuring the temperature is below 30°C when adding Alpha Arbutin. Vitamin B6 should also not be heated above 40°C.
  6. Consider Preservative: Ensure your cream base or an added preservative system is sufficient to protect the formula from microbial growth, especially with a high water content.

Overall, the formulation has good moisturizing ingredients. The main challenges will be managing the pH for optimal stability and efficacy of Vitamin B6 and Alpha Arbutin, and ensuring compatibility with your chosen cream base and natural extract.

Recommended Adjustments Summary:

  • Specify the natural extract and verify its usage rate and compatibility.
  • Add ActiveProtec™ OX at 0.6% for Alpha Arbutin stability.
  • Carefully adjust the final formula pH to be between 4 and 6.5.
  • Consider increasing Double Hyaluron Liquid to 5% for enhanced hydration.
  • Be prepared to adjust the cream base or add a stabilizer if Vitamin B6 causes softening.
  • Follow proper mixing temperatures and protect the final product from light.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
เครื่องสำอาง
MOIST72™
MOIST72™
เครื่องสำอาง
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
WaterLock™ (Polyquaternium-51)
เครื่องสำอาง
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Double Hyaluron Liquid
เครื่องสำอาง
Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride)
Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine Hydrochloride)
เครื่องสำอาง
Poly-Conditioner Easy
Poly-Conditioner Easy
เครื่องสำอาง
Walnut Oil (Refined, Cosmetics)
Walnut Oil (Refined, Cosmetics)
เครื่องสำอาง
ActiveProtec™ OX
ActiveProtec™ OX
เครื่องสำอาง