Solubility Issues of Oil Thick Clear S in Lip Gloss Formulation

The issue you are experiencing with Oil Thick™ Clear S (Thixotropic) not dissolving is likely due to the processing temperature and the balance of polar versus non-polar ingredients in your formulation.

1. Solubility and Temperature

Oil Thick™ Clear S (Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer) typically requires a temperature between 105°C and 120°C to fully dissolve and "unfurl" into the oil phase. At 95°C, the polymer may soften but will not fully incorporate, leading to clumps or a cloudy appearance.

• Solution: Increase your heat to at least 105-110°C while stirring continuously. Since you already plan to reach this temperature for Lip Film HR, it is best to dissolve the thickener at this higher stage.

2. Oil Compatibility (Polar vs. Non-Polar)

Your current base is a hybrid:

• Non-Polar (approx. 45%): Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, and Polybutene.
• Polar (approx. 17% in base + 19.5% natural oils later): Diisostearyl Malate (LipidSoft™ Disperse), Tridecyl Trimellitate (LipidSoft™ Film), Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (LipidSoft™ Lanolin), Ethylhexyl Palmitate (LipidSoft™ Palm), and natural oils.

Oil Thick™ Clear S is designed primarily for non-polar oils. While it can provide viscosity in polar mixtures, it may struggle with clarity or stability when the polar content (esters and natural oils) exceeds 30-40% of the total formula.

3. Recommended Adjustments

• Non-Polar Additions: Between your two options, Isododecane is the better choice to aid the solubility of this specific copolymer. It is a non-polar hydrocarbon that will help the polymer dissolve more easily than Octyldodecanol (which is polar). However, be aware that Isododecane is volatile and may evaporate at 110°C if the mixing vessel is not sealed.
• Alternative Polymer: If you want a clear, stable gel with this high level of polar esters and natural oils, Oil Thick™ Clear P is specifically designed for polar oils (esters and natural oils). It will provide better clarity and long-term stability for your specific blend.
• Thixotropic Effect: If you specifically require the thixotropic (liquid-when-moved) property of the "S" version, you must stick with it but ensure the temperature reaches 110°C.

4. Processing Sequence

1. Heat your non-polar oils (Polyisobutene, Polydecene, Polybutene) and esters to 105-110°C.
2. Slowly add Oil Thick™ Clear S (or Oil Thick™ Clear P) and blend until completely transparent.
3. Add Lip Film HR at this same temperature (105-110°C) and blend until clear.
4. Cool to 70-80°C before adding Silica Dimethyl Silylate (e.g., Oil-Fix™ W, which works well in hybrid oil/ester systems).
5. Add your natural oils and pigments last to avoid heat degradation of the natural oils.

Relevant Products:

• Oil Thick™ Clear S (Thixotropic) (Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer)
• Oil Thick™ Clear P (For Polar Oil) (Alternative for better clarity with esters/natural oils)
• Lip Film HR (Gloss Film Former For Glossy Lip)
• Isododecane (Non-polar solvent)
• LipidSoft™ Lanolin (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2)
• Oil-Fix™ W (Silica Dimethyl Silylate for hybrid systems)
• Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
• Hydrogenated Polydecene
• Polybutene
• LipidSoft™ Disperse (Diisostearyl Malate)
• LipidSoft™ Film (Tridecyl Trimellitate)
• LipidSoft™ Palm (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)