Solvent for Phytosphingosine SA and Clover Flower Extract in Emulsifier-Free Toner

Asked by: Anonymous On: February 21, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

May I ask which solvent Phytosphingosine SA can be dissolved in beforehand? I am planning to create a toner formulation with the following requirements:

  • Ingredients to include: Clover Flower Extract and Phytosphingosine SA.
  • Constraint: I want to make this toner without using any emulsifiers.

Answer

To incorporate Phytosphingosine SA and Clover Flower Extract (Biochanin A 98%) into your toner formula, you will need specific solvents for each ingredient as they have different solubility profiles:

1. Solvent for Phytosphingosine SA

Phytosphingosine SA is an oil-soluble powder. According to the manufacturer's instructions, it is best dissolved in:

  • Octyldodecanol: This is the recommended solvent to ensure maximum efficiency and prevent the ingredient from crystallizing (precipitating) in the formula.
    • Ratio: Use 6-7% Octyldodecanol for 0.1% Phytosphingosine SA, or 12-14% Octyldodecanol for 0.2% Phytosphingosine SA.
    • Method: You must heat the mixture of Octyldodecanol and Phytosphingosine SA to 80-90°C until it is completely dissolved into a clear liquid before adding it to the rest of the formula.

2. Solvent for Clover Flower Extract

Clover Flower Extract (Biochanin A 98%) can be dissolved in the following solvents before being added to the formula:

  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
  • Isopentyldiol

Important Formulation Advice for a Toner

Since you want to create a Toner without using emulsifiers, you should be aware of the following:

  • Solubility Challenge: Phytosphingosine SA requires an oil-phase solvent (Octyldodecanol). In a water-based toner, this oil phase will naturally separate from the water.
  • Bi-phase Toner: Without an emulsifier or solubilizer, your product will become a "bi-phase" toner (two separate layers) that must be shaken well before each use.
  • Single-phase (Clear) Toner: If you want a clear, single-phase water toner, you would typically need a solubilizer to bridge the oil-soluble components (Phytosphingosine SA + Octyldodecanol) with the water phase. Without a solubilizer or emulsifier, it is not possible to create a stable, uniform water-based solution with these ingredients.

Mixing Summary:

  1. Dissolve Phytosphingosine SA in Octyldodecanol using heat (80-90°C).
  2. Dissolve Clover Flower Extract in DMI or Isopentyldiol.
  3. If making a water-based toner, combine the water-soluble parts first, then add the oil-soluble part (expect separation if no emulsifier is used).