Substitutes for Cocamide DEA in Cosmetic Formulations
Question
What substances can be used as a replacement for Cocamide DEA in cosmetic formulations?
Answer
Cocamide DEA is traditionally used in cosmetic formulations for two primary purposes: thickening (viscosity building) and foam boosting/stabilizing. To replace it effectively, you may need one or a combination of ingredients depending on which property you want to replicate.
Here are the recommended substitutes available at MySkinRecipes:
1. For Foam Boosting and Stabilizing
These ingredients help maintain a rich, creamy lather similar to Cocamide DEA:
- Cocamidopropyl Betaine: A very popular amphoteric surfactant that is gentle and helps stabilize foam. It is often used as a secondary surfactant.
- Coco-Foam-50™ (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine): Excellent for creating high-quality foam and lather. It is very mild and compatible with various surfactant systems.
2. For Thickening (Viscosity Building)
If your goal is to make the formula thicker (which Cocamide DEA does very well), these specialized thickeners are excellent "DEA-free" alternatives:
- SugarThick™ (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate): A high-performance thickener derived from natural sugar. It provides a clear gel texture and does not reduce foam.
- PEG-150 Distearate: A classic non-ionic thickener for shampoos and body washes. It is effective even at low concentrations.
- FoamThix™ Liquid: A liquid thickener that is easy to use (cold processable if pre-mixed) and provides a smooth skin feel.
3. Dual-Purpose Alternative (Foam + Thickening)
- Cocamidopropylamine Oxide: This ingredient is perhaps the closest functional match to Cocamide DEA. It acts as both an effective foam booster and a viscosity builder, while being milder on the skin.
Recommendation for Formulating
Since Cocamide DEA is a "multi-tasker," many formulators replace it by using Cocamidopropyl Betaine for foam and SugarThick™ for the desired thickness. This combination often results in a milder, more premium-feeling product.
You can browse more options in the Foam booster category.