Sulfate-Free Shampoo Formulation: Percentages, Foam, and Ingredient Questions

Asked by: energinz On: May 07, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to formulate a sulfate-free shampoo using the following ingredients. What percentage should I use for each?

  • Herbal Extract Water
  • Sulfate Free Shampoo Base
  • Preservative: Mild Preserved Eco™ or Phenoxyethanol SA? Which is better?
  • Fragrance: Bergamot Essential Oil (italy, Fruit)
  • Thickener: SugarThick™
  • Conditioning Agent: Poly-Conditioner Pro (30000 mPa.s) or is Poly Eco sufficient?

Based on this list, will the formula have foam? Do I need to add or remove anything else? Is Cocamido (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) necessary?

Answer

Sample Sulfate-Free Shampoo Formulation Guideline

Here is a sample guideline for a sulfate-free shampoo formulation using the ingredients you listed. Please note that these are typical starting ranges, and the exact percentages may need to be adjusted based on desired viscosity, foam level, and performance through testing.

Ingredient Category Example Ingredient Typical Percentage Range
Water Phase Herbal Extract Water / Water Up to 100% (Balance)
Primary/Secondary Surfactant Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 10 - 20%
Thickener SugarThick™ 1 - 5%
Conditioning Agent Poly-Conditioner Pro / Poly Eco 0.1 - 1%
Preservative Mild Preserved Eco™ / Phenoxyethanol SA 0.5 - 1.5%
Fragrance Bergamot Essential Oil 0.1 - 0.5%

Will this formula have foam?
Yes, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate is a surfactant that will produce foam.

Do I need to add or remove anything?
The formula you proposed is a good starting point. However, you might consider adding:

  • Secondary Surfactant (like Cocamidopropyl Betaine): Adding 5-10% of a secondary surfactant like Cocamidopropyl Betaine can significantly improve foam quality, stability, and mildness.
  • pH Adjuster: Shampoo formulations typically need to be adjusted to a slightly acidic pH (around 5.0-6.0) for optimal hair and scalp health, as well as product stability. A Citric Acid solution is commonly used for this.
  • Other Actives: Depending on desired benefits, you could add humectants (e.g., Glycerin), specific herbal extracts, vitamins, etc.

Is Cocamido (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) necessary?
While not strictly mandatory, Cocamidopropyl Betaine is highly recommended in sulfate-free formulations. It acts as a foam booster, helps stabilize the lather, and can reduce potential irritation from other surfactants, resulting in a milder shampoo with better performance. If you want richer, more stable foam and a milder product, adding Cocamidopropyl Betaine is beneficial.