Sunscreen Formulation Analysis and Ingredient Functions

Asked by: kanyarach On: December 13, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Could you please analyze the following sunscreen formulation and explain the function of each ingredient? I am particularly interested in understanding the role of each component, the interactions, and any considerations for adding other ingredients (such as nourishing ones), especially given the high concentration of UV filters (totaling 30%). The ingredients are:

  • Homosalate (15.0%)
  • Octisalate (5.0%)
  • Avobenzone (3.0%)
  • Octocrylene (7.0%)
  • Glyceryl Stearate SE
  • Cetyl Alcohol
  • Behenyl Alcohol
  • Stearic Acid
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Lecithin
  • Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
  • Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
  • Cetyl Behenate
  • Isostearyl Isostearate
  • Lauryl Alcohol
  • Myristyl Alcohol
  • Palmitic Acid
  • Isododecane
  • Isodecyl Neopentanoate
  • Diisopropyl Sebacate
  • Lauryl Lactate
  • Glycerin
  • Allantoin
  • Beta-Glucan
  • Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
  • Maltodextrin
  • Caprylyl Glycol
  • 1,2 Hexanediol
  • Disodium EDTA
  • Cassia Alata Leaf Extract
  • Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil
  • Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
  • Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil
  • Geranium Maculatum Oil
  • Pogostemon Cablin Oil
  • Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil
  • Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Oil
  • Glucose
  • Glucose Oxidase
  • Lactoperoxidase
  • Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Answer

Sunscreen Formulation Analysis

This formulation is a sunscreen product containing a blend of chemical UV filters and various other cosmetic ingredients.

Active Sunscreen Ingredients

The primary active ingredients for sun protection are:

  • Homosalate (15.0%): Provides UVB protection.
  • Octisalate (5.0%): Provides UVB protection and helps dissolve other UV filters like Avobenzone.
  • Avobenzone (3.0%): Provides UVA protection.
  • Octocrylene (7.0%): Provides UVB and some UVA II protection, and helps stabilize Avobenzone.

The total concentration of these active sunscreen ingredients is high (30%), which is typical for high SPF formulations.

Other Ingredients and Their Functions

The remaining ingredients serve various purposes in the formulation:

  • Emulsifiers and Thickeners: Ingredients like Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Behenate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, and Palmitic Acid help to create and stabilize the emulsion (mixing oil and water phases), thicken the product, and contribute to its texture and feel on the skin.
  • Emollients and Solvents: Isododecane, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, and Lauryl Lactate are emollients and solvents that help to spread the product, provide a light feel, and dissolve other ingredients.
  • Humectants and Skin Conditioners: Glycerin, Allantoin, Beta-Glucan, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), and Maltodextrin are included to provide moisture, soothe the skin, reduce irritation, and support skin health.
  • Preservative Boosters/Solvents: Caprylyl Glycol and 1,2 Hexanediol can act as solvents and enhance the effectiveness of preservatives.
  • Chelating Agent: Disodium EDTA helps to neutralize metal ions in the water phase, improving formula stability.
  • Botanical Extracts: Cassia Alata Leaf Extract may provide additional skin benefits.
  • Essential Oils: Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil, Geranium Maculatum Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Oil, Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil, and Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Oil are likely included for fragrance.
  • Other: Glucose, Glucose Oxidase, Lactoperoxidase, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment are also present and may serve various functions, potentially related to preservation or skin conditioning.

As noted by the staff, due to the high percentage of sunscreen actives, it is advisable to use skin-nourishing ingredients at lower concentrations to prevent the formula from becoming too sticky or heavy.