Sunscreen Formulation Procedure Review (W/O Emulsion)
Question
Review of Sunscreen Formulation Procedure: Is the following procedure correct for a formula containing SPF Protect Ultra™ II, Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid, Water Capsule, Satin Cream Maker, Water, and Mild Preserve Eco?
Ingredients:
- SPF Protect Ultra™ II 15%
- Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid 5%
- Water Capsule 4%
- Satin Cream Maker 1%
- Water (remaining part)
- Mild Preserve Eco 1%
Procedure:
- Combine ingredients 1-3 and heat to form the oil phase.
- Combine ingredients 4-5 and blend to form the water phase.
- Add the oil phase to the water phase and blend.
- Add ingredient 6 and blend again.
Answer
Formulation Procedure Review
Based on the ingredients you've listed and the properties of SPF Protect Ultra II, Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid, Water Capsule, and Satin Cream Maker, the mixing procedure you've outlined is not the most suitable for creating a stable and effective emulsion.
Here's why:
- You are using both Water Capsule (a water-in-oil emulsifier) and Satin Cream Maker (an oil-in-water emulsifier). While it's possible to create complex emulsions, the proposed method of combining them in separate phases and then mixing oil into water is not the standard or recommended approach for these specific ingredients, especially considering Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid is best used in water-in-oil systems.
- Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid is specifically developed for use in water-in-oil emulsion systems. Your proposed method of adding the oil phase (containing Zinc Oxide) to the water phase (containing Satin Cream Maker) leans towards creating an oil-in-water emulsion, which is not ideal for this type of Zinc Oxide.
To create a stable water-in-oil emulsion using Water Capsule, SPF Protect Ultra II, Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid, water, and Mild Preserved Eco, a more appropriate procedure would be:
Corrected Mixing Procedure (Water-in-Oil Emulsion):
- Oil Phase: Combine SPF Protect Ultra II, Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid, and Water Capsule. Heat this phase to 70-80°C and blend until all ingredients are fully dispersed and homogeneous. SPF Protect Ultra II requires heat for optimal performance.
- Water Phase: Measure out the required amount of water. (Satin Cream Maker is typically used in the water phase for oil-in-water emulsions and is not included in this water-in-oil procedure).
- Emulsification: While blending the Oil Phase at a low speed (slow stirring or low RPM blender, e.g., 100-1000 rpm), slowly add the Water Phase to the Oil Phase in a thin stream. Continue blending at low speed until the emulsion forms and is uniform. Avoid high-speed blending at this stage, as it can break the water-in-oil emulsion.
- Cooling and Final Additions: Allow the emulsion to cool down. Once cooled, add Mild Preserved Eco and blend gently until fully incorporated.
This method focuses on creating a stable water-in-oil emulsion, which is recommended for Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid and aligns with the primary function of Water Capsule. Satin Cream Maker is omitted from this procedure as its inclusion in the water phase for a W/O system is not standard and could lead to instability.
Related Products Mentioned
Satin Cream Maker™
Water-Capsule™ (Water-in-Oil Cream)
Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)