Sunscreen Formulation Questions: SPF, pH, and Ingredient Usage

Asked by: pinthip_nong On: November 29, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions regarding a sunscreen formulation:

  1. How can I calculate the exact percentage of SPF Protect Ultra II needed to achieve SPF 50 PA++ when using Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid at 5%?
  2. If Oil Cream Maker™ requires Triethanolamine 99% for emulsification (e.g., 2x Oil Cream Maker), do I still need to add Triethanolamine 99% even if I plan to adjust the final pH with Glycolic Acid? How do these ingredients interact?
  3. Is it correct to dissolve water-soluble ingredients like Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) in the water phase before combining with the oil phase?
  4. When is the best time to add Glycolic Acid for final pH adjustment in the formulation process?
  5. Could you provide a list of specific sunscreen ingredients and their percentages to achieve a SPF 50 PA+++ formulation?

Answer

Hello,

Regarding your questions about the proposed sunscreen formula:

  1. SPF 50 PA++ with 5% Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid: I cannot provide the exact percentage of SPF Protect Ultra II needed to achieve SPF 50 PA++ when using 5% Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid. Achieving a specific SPF and PA level requires testing or detailed formulation data from the supplier, which is not available to me. Please consult the product documentation or contact the supplier for guidance on achieving your target SPF/PA with these ingredients.
  2. Triethanolamine 99% and Glycolic Acid: Triethanolamine 99% is often used in conjunction with emulsifiers like Oil Cream Maker™ to help form and stabilize the emulsion, as indicated by the supplier's instructions (e.g., 2x Oil Cream Maker). This function is separate from adjusting the final pH of the product using an acidic ingredient like Glycolic Acid. If Oil Cream Maker requires Triethanolamine for proper emulsification, you would likely still need to include it according to the emulsifier's instructions. Glycolic Acid would then be added separately, typically at the end, to adjust the final pH to the desired range for efficacy and stability, which might require careful balancing with the Triethanolamine already present.
  3. Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) addition: Yes, dissolving water-soluble ingredients like Safe-B3™ in the water phase before combining with the oil phase is a standard and effective method for ensuring even dispersion in the final product. Your proposed method of adding it with water (part of the water phase) is correct.
  4. Glycolic Acid (pH adjustment) timing: It is generally recommended to add ingredients used for pH adjustment, such as Glycolic Acid, at the end of the formulation process. This allows you to measure the pH of the finished product and adjust it precisely to the target range after all other ingredients have been incorporated and the emulsion has cooled.
  5. SPF 50 PA+++ formulation: Similar to question 1, I cannot provide a specific list of sunscreen ingredients and their percentages to achieve SPF 50 PA+++ in your formula. Achieving this level of protection requires specific combinations and concentrations of UVA and UVB filters, which need to be determined through testing or by following validated formulas provided by the ingredient suppliers. SPF Protect Ultra™ II is described as providing high UVA/UVB protection, so it is a suitable candidate, but the exact percentage needed in combination with other filters (like Titanium Dioxide) for SPF 50 PA+++ cannot be calculated without specific data. Please consult the supplier for guidance.

Hope this helps!