Sunscreen Formulation (Waterproof, SPF Boosting) and Gel Foaming Issues

Here are the answers to your questions regarding the sunscreen formulas and the Pro Polymer gel:

Formula 1 (SPF Protect Ultra™ III)

1. Omitting LipidSoft: The description for SPF Protect Ultra™ III recommends using a LipidSoft type emollient at 30-60% of the SPF Protect Ultra™ III concentration for optimal dissolution and dispersion. In your formula with 20% SPF Protect Ultra™ III, this would mean adding 6-12% LipidSoft. While the video formula omits it, including a suitable LipidSoft can help ensure the SPF Protect Ultra™ III is fully dissolved and evenly distributed, which is important for achieving the stated SPF value and a smooth texture. You can try making it without LipidSoft, but the performance might be compromised.
2. Making it Waterproof/Sweatproof and Mixing: To make this formula waterproof and sweatproof, you can add a film former. Allianz OPT is a polymer film former that provides water and wear resistance and works well in emulsion systems like yours.
   • Recommended Modification: Add 1-3% Allianz OPT to your formula.
   • Modified Formula Example:
     • SPF Protect Ultra™ III: 20%
     • Light Cream Maker™: 1.5%
     • Allianz OPT: 1-3%
     • Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): 1%
     • Water: adjust to 100%
   • Mixing Procedure:
     • Combine SPF Protect Ultra™ III and any LipidSoft (if using) in a container (Oil Phase).
     • In a separate container, combine Water, Light Cream Maker™, Allianz OPT, and Phenoxyethanol (Water Phase). Stir the Water Phase until Light Cream Maker™ and Allianz OPT are dispersed.
     • Slowly add the Oil Phase to the Water Phase while stirring continuously until a homogeneous cream is formed.
     • Ensure thorough mixing to fully incorporate all ingredients. Avoid high-speed blending (above 2500 rpm) which can damage the Light Cream Maker™.

Formula 2 (Zinc Oxide + Titanium Dioxide)

1. Making it Waterproof/Sweatproof: Similar to the first formula, adding a film former like Allianz OPT will provide waterproof and sweatproof properties.

   • Recommended Modification: Add 1-3% Allianz OPT to your formula.
   • Modified Formula Example:
     • Zinc Oxide (Ultra-Fine, Non-Yellow, Non-Coated, USP): 10%
     • Titanium Dioxide Nanosil: 5%
     • LipidSoft™ C1215: 20%
     • Light Cream Maker™: 1%
     • Allianz OPT: 1-3%
     • Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): 1%
     • Water: adjust to 100%
   • Mixing Procedure:
     • Combine Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide Nanosil, and LipidSoft™ C1215 in a container (Oil/Powder Phase). Ensure powders are well dispersed in the LipidSoft™ C1215.
     • In a separate container, combine Water, Light Cream Maker™, Allianz OPT, and Phenoxyethanol (Water Phase). Stir until dispersed.
     • Slowly add the Oil/Powder Phase to the Water Phase while stirring continuously until a homogeneous cream is formed.
     • Ensure thorough mixing. Avoid high-speed blending.

2. Increasing SPF to 50 PA+++ with Moderate White Cast: To achieve SPF 50 PA+++ with physical filters, you will need to increase the total concentration of Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. The amount of white cast is related to the particle size and concentration of these filters. Using nano-sized particles helps reduce whiteness compared to larger particles, but increasing the concentration will still increase the white cast.

   • To reach SPF 50, you would likely need a total physical filter concentration significantly higher than 15% (10% Zinc Oxide + 5% Titanium Dioxide). The exact percentage needed depends on the specific grades used and the overall formula. You might need to increase Zinc Oxide and/or Titanium Dioxide Nanosil to a total of 20-25% or even higher, depending on testing.
   • When increasing the powder (Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide) content, you may need to adjust the amount of LipidSoft™ C1215. LipidSoft™ C1215 helps disperse these powders in the oil phase. Increasing the powder content might require a slightly higher percentage of LipidSoft™ C1215 to ensure proper dispersion and a smooth texture, preventing a gritty feel. Start by slightly increasing LipidSoft™ C1215 (e.g., to 22-25%) when you increase the physical filters and adjust based on the resulting texture.
   • Achieving a specific SPF/PA level requires in-vivo or in-vitro testing of the final formula.

Reducing Foam in Pro Polymer Gel

Foam when using Pro Polymer™ can occur due to vigorous mixing or blending at high speeds. Pro Polymer™ is a polymer that can be damaged by excessive shear.

To reduce or eliminate foam:

• Avoid High-Speed Blending: Do not blend above 2500 rpm.
• Hydrate Properly: Allow sufficient time for the Pro Polymer™ powder to fully hydrate in the water phase. You can sprinkle the powder onto the water and let it sit for a day before slow blending to help it dissolve easily without high shear.
• Pre-mix with Glycols: If your formula contains glycerin or propylene glycol (above 5%), pre-mixing the Pro Polymer™ with these glycols before adding to water can help reduce clumping and the need for vigorous mixing.