Sunscreen Primer Formulation: Texture, Blurring, and SPF

Asked by: shopslim On: January 20, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a sunscreen primer formula with the following ingredients:

  • Zinc Oxide (4.20%) - using Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid
  • Titanium Dioxide (2.45%) - using Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid
  • Cyclopentasiloxane
  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane
  • Isododecane
  • LipidSoft Lite
  • Peg-10 Dimethicone
  • Oil Blender
  • stearic acid
  • Alumina
  • PolySilicone-11

My skin type is combination/oily T-zone with large pores on the cheeks. I want the product to blur pores, control oil, help makeup last longer, be easy to apply, feel lightweight, non-comedogenic, and provide sun protection.

I have the following questions:

  1. What are the recommended percentages for the remaining ingredients (Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Isododecane, LipidSoft Lite, Peg-10 Dimethicone, Oil Blender, stearic acid, Alumina, PolySilicone-11)?
  2. What is PolySilicone-11?
  3. Can I add SPF Protect Ultra™ II to the formula to increase the SPF value?
  4. Can this primer be applied during the day over makeup?
  5. Are there any other ingredients you would recommend adding to make the formula more complete?

Answer

Formula Analysis and Answers

Based on the ingredients provided and the staff's reply, here is an analysis of your sunscreen primer formula and answers to your questions:

Your formula uses Zinc Oxide (4.20%) and Titanium Dioxide (2.45%) as the main active sunscreen ingredients. The staff confirmed that the liquid versions of these ingredients are used (Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid and Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid). The formula also includes silicones (Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, PolySilicone-11), solvents/emollients (Isododecane, LipidSoft Lite), and an emulsifier (Peg-10 Dimethicone). The staff noted that Peg-10 Dimethicone, Oil Blender, stearic acid, and Alumina are components already present in the liquid Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide dispersions.

Given your skin type (large pores on cheeks, combination/oily T-zone) and expectations (blurring pores, oil control, makeup longevity, easy application, lightweight, non-comedogenic, sun protection), this formula framework is suitable. The silicones and Isododecane/LipidSoft Lite provide the desired texture and feel, while Polymethylsilsesquioxane helps with blurring. The mineral sunscreens provide protection.

Here are the answers to your specific questions:

  1. Recommended percentages for remaining ingredients:

    • Polymethylsilsesquioxane: The staff recommends using 2-3% for blurring and covering wrinkles.
    • Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, LipidSoft Lite: These ingredients make up the remaining portion of the formula. You should adjust the ratio of these three ingredients to achieve the specific texture and skin feel you desire (e.g., more Isododecane/Cyclopentasiloxane for a lighter, faster-drying feel; more LipidSoft Lite for a slightly richer, emollient feel).
    • Other ingredients (Peg-10 Dimethicone, Oil Blender, stearic acid, Alumina): The staff confirmed these are already components of the liquid Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide used, so you do not need to add them separately.
  2. PolySilicone-11 identification: According to the staff, PolySilicone-11 is a component of a sunscreen ingredient but is not available for purchase from their company.

  3. Adding SPF Protect Ultra™ II: Yes, you can add SPF Protect Ultra™ II to the formula to potentially boost SPF. However, the staff advises caution regarding the amount. Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide already provide good sun protection. Adding too many sunscreen ingredients can make the formula feel heavy or sticky, which would counteract your goal of a lightweight primer suitable for daily use.

  4. Applying during the day over makeup: The staff recommends applying this primer before makeup, not over makeup during the day.

  5. Suggestions for additional ingredients: The current set of ingredients is well-suited for a blurring, oil-controlling sunscreen primer. The staff's advice focuses on adjusting the ratios of the base liquids (Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, LipidSoft Lite) and the percentage of Polymethylsilsesquioxane (2-3%) to perfect the texture and performance according to your preference. The other listed ingredients are already included in the liquid sunscreen dispersions you are using.

Adjusting the ratios of the base ingredients and the amount of Polymethylsilsesquioxane should help you achieve the desired feel and blurring effect while maintaining the sun protection from the Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.